in theory as long as you have a 100% even coat of wax in one hit then fine. However usually you do multiple layers to garuntee that 100% coverage.

With a chemical release agent its much quicker to apply and only needs 1 or 2 coats per pull from the mould if youre doing infusion.

Cool, yes I think I will try that next. I did post somewhere around here that the wax and pva coating is starting to be the most imperfection problems..

 

I have been cutting back on waxing, was like 5, then 3 then 2 coats. When your mould is real shiny its easy to see the wax. Also after the wax a light coat of pva.

 

As far as waxing If I can see the haze over the mould I'm good right? I think I could get away with waxing one time and a quick coat of pva. the thinnest coat of wax will work as long as its evan and completely covered??





Wish I would bought this stuff when I was ordering the other day.... The shipping to USA drives me insane!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Next round I guess...



If Brute Force Isn''''t working your not using enough...

Have you tried a chemical semi-permenant release agent such a easylease or similar?

You will get a easier release than with wax, plus easylease can leave a nice gloss finish if the mould is highly polished.

Ive always found wax releasing is the hardest, but PVA causes surface finish imperfections that need polishing out.

however with easylease ive found if the mould is shiny, then so is the part straight from the mould.

Would kind of maximise the benefit of a cosmetic gelcoat if it comes out super shiney to start with. Plus save you time in finishing.

Well All I have is a big top feed gun, I can use this in the future buut a bit big for the size of parts I will be starting with.

I plan to go to the local tool store an see if they have a automotive touchup gun.

 In my air brush searching I found "PAASCHE AIRBRUSH" # 62-1-3 is looking nice for smaller stuff"



 

I have some 1/32 wax I am waiting to get here. I plan to make a side mirror cover. I was sitting there buffing my part out and realized I cant just make the mould of this I need some type of thickness on the part to compensate for the part thickness.... So no need to polish the part, but I never worked with the sheet wax before

So I guess I will be doing a bit more work in the mould but with this small part should not be a big deal..

 

Now

 

"

 



If Brute Force Isn''''t working your not using enough...

What would be the best gun to use for spraying small molds? would an airbrush work or would a small spot repair gravity fed be better?

My question about the pva was not if it would de-mould well but if I spray it on the pva, will it lay right?

The gelcoat will go down onto PVA fine. PVA is a much less repellent surface the wax or chemical release agent so, although PVA comes with plenty of its own problems, it does make it easier to put gelcoat down onto it.


Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales

Thanks guys, Sounds like I will be spraying it on. My question about the pva was not if it would de-mould well but if I spray it on the pva, will it lay right?

 

Guess I need to just wait tell it gets here and give it a shot. I want to have it on thiere thick enough I could do some minor sanding if needed.

 

im at the point were I am cuting back the amount of waxing I do,just 2 times then pva.

 

I can say coming from a noob I was using was to much, so much that the wax was efecting my part surface. NOW I know that just a haze of wax is al you need, otherwise more work later....

 



If Brute Force Isn''''t working your not using enough...

Hi Alex,

No, epoxy doesn't protect from UV like a polyurethane paint or a polyester gelcoat would. The epoxy would hold up fine but you can't describe it as providing UV protection for what's underneath.

--Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales

Will thiss stuff protect from UV, as a Lacquer would?