Carbon Fibre Time Attack Aero parts/project - Materials and advice needed


Carbon Fibre Time Attack Aero parts/project - Materials and advice needed
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GTO NEMESIS
GTO NEMESIS
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Hi everyone, first post on here.

I'm looking for some product and process advice on making some carbon fibre body panels and aero parts for my Time Attack race car.

This is where I am up to so far:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5YDIYGfKkE




And this is the sort of thing I am trying to achieve:




I'm obviously going to have to make a mould from the mock ups that I'm doing at the moment.
My plan is to make replacement bumpers and wings, not make aero parts that stick on.

What else do I need to buy to push on with my project and does anyone have any advice on how to make the parts in the best way.
My composite making experience is very limited but I'm somewhat of a practical nature.

Thanks
Mark
         page1image31912
GTO NEMESIS
GTO NEMESIS
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This is what I have bought so far:

Product SKU Product Name Unit Price Quantity Amount

FP-GB-01 Glass Bubbles (Microspheres) 100g £3.95 £3.95

GF-22-200-1 Woven Glass 2/2 Twill 200g 1m Wide £2.72 £21.76 00

FSB-14 Fluted Signboard 122cm x 122cm (Pack of 4) £25.08 £25.08

PP-SHT-1 Polypropylene Sheet 100cm x 100cm £28.65 £28.65

EP-IN2-S-5 IN2 Epoxy Infusion Resin 5kg Pack SLOW £60.43 £60.43

VP425-UK- VP425 Composites Vacuum Pump - UK Power Lead £150.00 £150.00 KITDEAL

SK-RI Resin Infusion Starter Kit £150.00 £150.00

BS-22-200-1 Black Stuff Carbon Fibre 2/2 Twill 3k 200g 1m Wide -10m £100.00 £100.00

00-10

Roll

SORIC3 Lantor Soric SF Infusion Core 3mm £9.83 11 £108.13

DL-22-200-1 Black Diolen 200gsm 2/2 Twill - 1.2m Wide £7.23 10 £72.30 20

MEKP-025 MEKP Catalyst 250g £3.00 £3.00

ELRA-01 Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent -100ml £5.67 £5.67

FILLWAX-33 Soft Filleting and Filling Wax - 330g Pack £6.17 £6.17 0

FBRT-25 Flash/Release Tape 25mm £6.95 £6.95

FF-GP FusionFix GP Spray Adhesive £9.95 £9.95

NG-100-M Nitrile Gloves - Box of 100 Medium £4.99 £4.99

MRW-8-100 Meguires #8 Mirror Glaze Mould Release Wax 100g £6.50 £6.50

S K - U M - R - Uni-Mould Complete Mould Making Kit - Regular (0.7sqm) £76.45 £76.45 KIT 


Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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This first thing I will say is that you will need a much bigger mould making kit. To make a mould of something like what you have got there, I'd estimate you will need around 1-2kg of tooling gelcoat (I always do 2 coats, but you can get away with 1 if you want to save a bit), 2kg of skin coat resin, and somewhere between 15-20kg of tooling resin. 



You will also want to get, if you don't have it already, some automotive body filler and a coating of some sort (whether it's regular 2k automotive spray paint or EC's pattern coat system is up to you). To produce the plugs for your part, you have made a decent start there. My preferred method would actually be to leave your cardboard as a cavity (as seen in your 4th photo), and pour in expanding 2 part polyurethane foam. Once cured, remove the cardboard to leave behind just your foam shape. This is then much easier to work with and shape up perfectly. 

If you don't want to use foam, you can also get away with simply laying up fibreglass over the top of your plastic signboard. I'd use chop strand mat fibreglass for this rather than woven, but that's up to you. This will be harder to work with than the foam method. 

Then from there, regardless of whether you use the foam or the fibreglass method, you will want to use your automotive body filler to smooth your dive planes into the bodywork. Be patient and get this step right, as this is where you either get a perfect result or a flawed result. Work with a sanding block and 60 grit paper, don't be tempted to sand it by hand unless you are sanding fine details. 

Once you have got your shape smoothed and faired perfectly, then you will want to apply your initial coating. I use a 2k high build primer for this step, but EC's pattern coat primer looks the goods too. After application, flat this down again using 180-220 grit paper and then apply another coat. Do this until you've got a perfectly flat surface. If you're applying a high gloss 2k automotive paint on top then you will need to flat your final coat of primer down with 400-600 grit paper. 
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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First off I would recommend you watch our video series on making a Carbon Fibre Bonnet as the principles work fine for all body panels. 

Especially relevant is the mould making side, including how you use the filleting wax and the flash tape to fill any unwanted holes and seal any edges from resin.  Also flange making is quite important.

Hanaldo is right on the mould making kit size. The kits are based on surface area, so once you have measured the full bumper moulding up (including the flanges you will make), that will give you a total surface area.  The large kit is 3.3sqm coverage and i suspect this is the ball park area you will end up in.

You need to view the bumper and aero add ons as one pattern if you are making it one piece.  How much preparation you do is up to you.  You could trim it and neaten it with filleting wax then mould directly off the sign board you have there.

However you need to bear in mind that the mould always is a reflection of the pattern, (and likewise the part a reflection of the mould) so any imperfections will be on the mould.

This isnt a problem if you use a thick layer of gelcoat, as you can sand the gelcoat smooth then polish it up again.

However, in most cases it can make sense to do all the preparation on the pattern first to get it to the highest standard ready for moulding.  You could use the signboard then filler it and use our Pattern Coat Primer and Gloss to get a final finish, or you could hand or CNC carve a foam pattern to go on the bumper and coat the foam with PCP and Gloss to get a good finish too.

The choice is yours really.

Be careful with rattle can spray paints as it can take a few weeks or longer for all the solvents to outgas and the solvents can break down release agents.  Proper spray gun 2 part paints are fine, or use dedicated pattern coatings.

Until you have finished the pattern, you won't know how much materials you need for the part. Once finished you can measure up to work out how much carbon you need per layer then come up with a layup schedule.  Something like 2 layers of material either side of the soric core should be plenty stiff enough. You might be able to get away with 1 layer either side of the core due to the curved shape adding stiffness.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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