Ok, so Vacuum bagging is where I would basically 'soak' the carbon fiber, place it into the mold, then bag it and put vacuum. Infusion is where I put the dry fiber and bagging materials in, pull out all the air, then draw in resin?

...Would explain my confusion, most people I talk to refer to Infusion and 'vacuum bagging' as the same thing...or maybe im just not paying attention (which could very well be).

So if I lets say laid out the fiber, painted on the resin then put it in the mold and added the bag, connect to vacuum, that is what this Dura-Klear Laminating resin is for. My only concern is having enough time to get all the layers wetted up then put in the mold then whatever materials on top and sealed down before it starts to harden. Im gonna go look up 'Vacuum bagging' to see if that is a better choice for me for this week until I have more time to source an 'infusion' type epoxy. Unless the solution that Hanaldo gave me will suffice for now (feeding and drawing from 1 side of the mold to the other and not end to end) The west system epoxy I know will work for the bagging method because with the ultra clear hardener it seemed to have a longer pot life than the epoxy im using now.

Lastly, if I need to fix the mold, can I add some tooling gelcoat to the imperfection, let it cure and then sand it smooth? or will that pull away from the surface thats already there? I know I will need to clean the release wax Ive been using.

just so you know (picked it up from one of your posts), "vac bagging" and "infusion" are two completely different methods, vac bagging you laminate (wet lay) then put into the bag and pull the vacuum - so they may have confused what you want to do with it. Infusion is still quite a new concept in a lot of circles.

Yeh it isn't necessary to know the science in depth to get good results, but I find once you understand these things you can predict problems and take measures to increase your chances of success. All comes with experience though, so you'll get there! 

Ok, thats what I figured you meant by bridging. That seems likely to be happening, its difficult to get the bag to suck down into the gauge pod dip in the mold. I think more bag and maybe better pleating will allow it to get down deeper and keep the carbon against the mold surface. Ive learned alot from your help thank you. I still am having alittle trouble with the 'science' of it but this helps me with figuring out a good balance in what im doing. I know for sure the next mold I make will have a larger flange area than the last 2 molds I made. 

Correct, same surface area. The spiral hose simply extends the flow front, it doesn't slow the resin at all. You could theoretically accomplish the same thing infusing the length of the part by running your spiral hose from the entry point to the exit point. This would mean that your resin reaches the end very quickly, but for one you will waste resin as the resin that has already reached the exit will flow out of the part again before the rest of the part has fully wet out. Secondly, infusing at this speed would likely create voids as it doesn't give the resin time to wet the material out evenly; and third you will likely end up with the spiral tube 'printing' through onto the surface of the part. 

Ok that makes more sense. However what did you mean by bridging?

Your analogy isn't totally correct, but it's sort of the same principal. It also isn't because of the size of your vacuum pump. It's a bit of a tricky thing to understand because you need to know how the physics of infusion work, but I'll try to explain it because it's quite useful to know. 

Hanaldo, thank you very much for the info that helps me out ALOT! Though im confused regarding the draw regards length. Watching the video on EC's website the infusion video seems like that part is a fairly good size but they said it only takes a few minutes to pull that. Maybe its the pump I have? its a 3CFM dual stage pump by Pittsburg Automotive, their specs says they pull down to 22.5 microns. FYI my above post I added the materials im using (specific brand names) Only thing I dont have is the Epoxy, its sold by Revchem locally in the U.S. in a few states, I believe its a vinyl epoxy..they said its used for bagging.

•  Can I add multiple resin draw points to a part if its too long. (ie: Resin pot>feed line#1>part>feed line#2>part>feedline#3>part>pump line>catch pot>pump) just so long as I make sure the resin will pass a certain point before I unclamp the next line.....or is that just crazy talk?
• You said to use Acetone, but what if I just did a scuff up and used compressed air & a tack cloth to wipe off the dust before recoating? which leads me to getting rid of micro bubbles when I use an applicator, I know you use a heat gun but how long to you hit it with heat for?
• My mold has a few little imperfections that I need to 'fill in' so the final part is smooth. Can I use clay or wax (do I need to wax or ez lease it?) or should I just let the resin fill in the imperfection and sand it out? (fyi these imperfections will be raised points on the part, though not by 'much')
• Lastly, if I run into a large part in the future how do I get around the issue of too large an area for the pump? my above idea or a slower cure resin?

Thanks again all your help, this I feel will get me past this little hump I cant get over in my learning curve.

edit: I think I get what you were talking about regarding the draw distance being too long. If the part width that im pulling the resin into is smaller than the length of the part then im basically like trying to quickly fill up a 12x40 ft room with people only coming in 1 door on the 12 foot side, even though its the same amount of space overall if I instead let people into the room via the 40ft side I will have more entrance space and thus fill it faster with less work. So feed on 40inch side and exit on 40inch side should net me much better results. Now to figure out why I keep getting bubbles on the gauge pod part I molded into the pillar. it is a deep part of the mold so maybe there is a bubble pulled from somewhere and it just sits there, that or its because of the way I was pulling resin that started to 'thin out' the resin to create gaps in spots.