I started with wet-lay years ago, making some very nice items.. They were a kind of "skinning" since I made up rifle-stocks from Balsa, and skinned them in CF.
I used simple methods to keep the CF/resin in place, mainly wrapping the stocks first in long strips of peel-ply, then perforated release-film, and then a layer of old linen cloth to absorb excess resin.
The stocks looked like mummies with the embalming fluid leaking through

.. when laid out to cure on top of a central heating radiator


The first one got locked quite solidly to the radiator, I just didn't think to put down some polythene on top of the radiator...

I discovered that the peel-ply surface with only a very thin coat of spray clear, acts like a very good non-slip grip area ... Sort of like a built in "checkering pattern"
I then went on to make CF "domes" for some Subwoofer speakers ... to make the cheap drivers look A LOT "cooler" ...
To get the desired low resonance frequency, we needed to add mass to the driver membrane, so why not glue on an outer "dome" of CF ??? It works perfectly..
I used a glass dome from a ceiling lamp as a mould, waxed it, layed up two layers of Twill, peel-ply, perforated release and some old fleece cloth ... to keep everything in place, i put a large polythene bag of warm water on top! (A trick I have later used to speed up the cure of both vac-bagged and infused parts.. The bag of hot water conforms nicely the most concave shapes, thus transferring the heat nicely to the part in the mould.)
I use hot water straight form my hot tap, which is precisely 55 Deg. Centigrade ... so ... no damage to mould or other parts.
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