Foam removal with aceton

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Foam removal with aceton

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antokalo	antokalo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 6, Visits: 71	hello guys , its my first post here , i dont know if this chapter is the right place for this question but i ll throw it . I want to make the joints of a bicycle with cf, i am thinking to carve the shapes in foam either take 2 part foam and fuse it into a mold , to make the mould of the part then i will vacuum infuse the part over the mold of the foam i ll make after that i am thinking to remove the foam with ACETON. the question is will aceton hurt the carbon fiber part or the epoxy resin ,affecting the parts strength? Thanks in advance
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brainfart	brainfart posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 198, Visits: 1.4K	2 part foam will not dissolve in acetone. It is insoluble in pretty much all solvents.
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Matthieu Libeert	Matthieu Libeert posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 955, Visits: 3.4K	when the epoxy is fully cured, it wont react with acetone... might give a dull finish but it will be on the inside so no big problems... Like stated above 2K foams will not dissolve, only styrofoam will dissolve Matthieu Libeert Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports website: www.mat2composites.com
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antokalo	antokalo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 6, Visits: 71	thanks for your responses guys . So PLAN A: the way is to have styrofoam cnced (which will take alot time more) and and them vaccum it one more question : is styrofoam strong enough to handle vacuums presure without disorting the original shape? PLAN B: use 2 part foam on a mold and then vacuum it and carve the foam out afterwards with a dremel or something. But it would be dangerous to harm the CF with the dremel. QU : is 2 part foam carvable after that? an idea came up to my mind just now : make the part out of 2 part foam for example 2 mm less than it should be then cover it with an other material 2mm that would be disolvable to aceton so i would have 2mm safe margin when carving out the 2 part foam. but the hard thing would be to have a uniform thickness of 2 mm all around the part. but all these might not be necesery if i put release agent or peel ply in the inside part of the mold so i will carve out 2mm less and then break the thin wall of the remaining foam? to get an idea what i am planing to do imagine like a bamboo bike but not of bamboo out of wood , but i want the joints to be with vacuum infusion not wet layup thats why the foam should be removed afterwards so the wood will insert in to the part like a dowel into a hole and glued there. thanks again
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ChrisR	ChrisR posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 363, Visits: 3K	you can get different densities of expanded foam so just find one that is stable in compression (give someone like cordek a ring and see if they have any offcuts)
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Dravis	Dravis posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 592, Visits: 1.9K	Why not use a stronger foam, and just leave it in there, only removing it carefully where needed ? It will not add significantly to the final weight ... Dremel it out roughly then use hand tools to remove the rest + abrasive paper to give a good bonding finish inside? "Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW! The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind... 103% of all people do not understand statistics... Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
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antokalo	antokalo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 6, Visits: 71	Dremel it out roughly then use hand tools to remove the rest + abrasive paper to give a good bonding finish inside? thats probably the best solution , sorry i tend to overkill things. SO the conclusions are .(i am thinking out loud) A) have styrofoam cnced and melt it all the way down ( adv:perfectly clean inside,dis : you have to cnc the mold everytime,takes time and money) B) make a female mold in which you will create the male mold , infuse it .... (adv: you make one mold and then pure some 2p foam into it (1 time cnc) dis: you have to carve it out yourshelf) a new one C) make the foam mold in any of the other ways put it on the jig , tack it with the wood or whatever, laminate it and then vacuum bang it and do your stuff (ADV : very good bonding with the pipes(wood, bamboo etc) and the carbon parts. DIS: hard lamination and generally complex procedure ) Thanks a lot to all of you guys
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FLD	FLD posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 468, Visits: 2.7K	Here's an alternative idea. If you are CNCing the foam it should be fairly easy to CNC a female mould (ie most of the programming would be done, just needs a reversal). Why not just get the mould done in aluminium? That would be rock solid. Edited 11 Years Ago by FLD
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antokalo	antokalo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 6, Visits: 71	Yes in plan B i mean cnc the female mold , just once as for aluminium i believe it will be too expensive , and i have a wood cnc so i will make it out of birch plywood.
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