4" intake pipe


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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Well, bit of an update on this.

Decided on a direction with the fitting, though it was a fair bit of extra work so not totally happy with the solution. I am also now discovering some oversights with the design of my mould and the whole process of making this part. I had planned on putting the two halves back into their moulds untrimmed to bond them together, as this would allow me to exactly align them, and the excess material would protect the mould from the adhesive. Given that my solution for the fitting meant the one half would no longer fit back into it's mould anyway, so that plan sort of went out the window; I also did not account for the extra thickness that the fabric on the flanges would give me, and when I put the two parts together they are now actually 3mm bigger than what they should be. Unfortunately this is critical, as the part needs to fit inside silicone joiners which have an ID of 3.957". If I were to bond them together like this, the part would end up not fitting into the joiners and would be totally useless. What I should have done was made the moulds 2-3mm SMALLER than the final part size that I wanted, to account for the fabric going onto the flange area. 

I have now trimmed the parts, unfortunately it's impossible to get a neat join line along the two halves, so the final product is going to look a bit messy. Not happy with how it is turning out. I also have another problem in that with no excess material, I now have no way of clamping the two halves together and applying pressure while they bond. I will need to attempt to vacuum bag it, though I am concerned that as soon as I put any pressure on the halves, they will fall out of alignment.

So I need to work out a better way of doing things, though I'm not sure which way to go. This may be a start-again scenario where I need to go back to my 3D drawing and account for the size tolerances. 
Edited 11 Years Ago by Hanaldo
wozza
wozza
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No problemSmile Let us know what you go with and how it turns out.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 11 Years Ago by wozza
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Thanks Warren. Given me some good food for thought, I'll try to make a decision now haha. I've asked Speedflow whether 10mm flat bar is necessary or if I could get away with 6mm. Should make my life a bit easier if I can. 
wozza
wozza
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Hanaldo (31/03/2014)
Well given the surface of the fitting flange is flat, and the pipe is curved, will that not give me two sides where the adhesive will have to do more gap filling? And hence not work so well with the masking tape? 

What if I bonded the fitting in from the inside using the epoxy adhesive as I was planning, and then put 2 carbon strips over the back of it to give it some more surface area and support, and vac bag it. As it's not threaded on its bore, I would then be able to drill out the hole from the carbon? If that makes sense? 


I shaped the bosses with a Dremmel to match the curve of the tank, that way it is effectively the same as two flat surfaces being bonded together. The lip on the fitting in your link may not be thick enough to do that, not sure. On the second version I modified the mould by bonding in flat discs of Ally where I wanted the fittings. Once infused the part has flat areas moulded in making attaching the fittings easier. Can't see why what you are suggesting won't work, just seems like quite a bit of extra work. If the part is for you then that's not really a problem but for me the extra time would have to be added on to the final cost of the tank.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Well given the surface of the fitting flange is flat, and the pipe is curved, will that not give me two sides where the adhesive will have to do more gap filling? And hence not work so well with the masking tape? 

What if I bonded the fitting in from the inside using the epoxy adhesive as I was planning, and then put 2 carbon strips over the back of it to give it some more surface area and support, and vac bag it. As it's not threaded on its bore, I would then be able to drill out the hole from the carbon? If that makes sense? 
wozza
wozza
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Hanaldo (29/03/2014)
Would that not only work if I was bonding the fitting onto a flat surface? 




Sorry, not sure what you mean?

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Hanaldo
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Would that not only work if I was bonding the fitting onto a flat surface? 
wozza
wozza
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Hanaldo (29/03/2014)
I could but it would look awful. 


If you cut a hole 2-3mm bigger than the OD of the lip in a piece of masking tape, place that over the fitting and apply the adhesive with an artists brush, when you remove the masking tape you get a nice neat line around the fitting.

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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I could but it would look awful. 
wozza
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Hanaldo (29/03/2014)
What do you think of this as an option Warren? If I drilled a hole in the pipe, then stuck this through the hole and used the weld on lip to bond it in? 

http://speedflowdirect.com.au/itemdetailspage/20387

The only thing I don't like about it is it looks like by the time I have drilled a big enough hole to fit the threads through, I won't have much area left for the lip to bond onto? 


I can see where your going. Could you not just bond it on the outside. That way you could drill a smaller hole. You could even take the adhesive over the lip for a stronger mechanical bond?

Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
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