Newcomer question :D


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nick1
nick1
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Hey guys, just new to the forum however have recently been making a few different moulds (not yet pulled any parts but they all look good and nice and shinny). 
I have however reached a bit of a problem when trying to make a mould for an engine component from a k20 Honda engine. My problem is the lines in the original part (see the attached pictures) there are three lines which go across and i don't wont them on my finished part, i have tried filling them with the filleting wax but you can still tell they were there on the mould. Also i just put some filleting wax in the holes which secure the part to the car, is this the done thing? i obviously will be drilling them out on the final part when i pull it from the mould so not much of an issue. 

Anyway thanks for reading any help would be appreciated Smile 

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/8808d7fb-af04-4543-8437-1c7f.jpg
carbonfibreworks
carbonfibreworks
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Do you need to re use the original cover ? if not fill the groves with body filler and seal with a 2k primer/paint. If you fill the grooves with filleting wax you will see the imprint in the mould but if you are using the Uni mould system you can remove the marks with 1200 wet and dry and a sanding block then polish the mould.

Regards Chris

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/97e08777-693c-4af1-a27a-86cf.png
wozza
wozza
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Bartonphoenix750 (04/06/2013)
Do you need to re use the original cover ? if not fill the groves with body filler and seal with a 2k primer/paint. If you fill the grooves with filleting wax you will see the imprint in the mould but if you are using the Uni mould system you can remove the marks with 1200 wet and dry and a sanding block then polish the mould.

Regards Chris




As above. Just make sure you leave the filleting wax slightly below the surrounding surface. This way when you make the mould the grooves will be produced as a slight positive allowing you to sand and polish them until they have gone completely. If the wax is proud then you will have low points in the mould which will then need filling. Hope that makes sense?

Regards Warren

Carbon Copies Ltd
Edited 12 Years Ago by wozza
carboncactus
carboncactus
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I notice the holes are countersunk.
You might need to get washers and longer screws to secure the composite part to the car.
As for the grooves, I would go the car body filler / primer way, that way you will have a smooth mould. You'll also get rid of the ABS plastic texture.

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/db628ad5-e0e7-47b9-873a-3d84.png
nick1
nick1
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Thank you all for all your help, will have a go with the body filler as i don't actually need the part again! 

Nick
nick1
nick1
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Sorry for digging this up again, but i notice that a few companies offer this part with the same fitment as the standard part, how exactly do you think they do it? I'll attach a picture of their parts. 
Also, is it possible to counter sink carbon fiber? Would it not just splinter?



Nick

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/dc98cbd1-6755-4796-9c20-d316.jpghttp://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/0f441947-e19f-4b34-b037-d8e0.jpg
wozza
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The fixing recesses will almost certainly have been made separately and then bonded on afterwards.  ( or they use a two part compression mould) I have done similar using carbon tube cut and shaped to fit and then bonded in place. If you use a hole saw the same size as the tube on some flat CF sheet you can make some" washers " that you can then bond onto the bottom of the tubes to finish the mounts.

Carbon Copies Ltd
nick1
nick1
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thanks for your help BigGrin 
was scratching my head for ages thinking about this. mould making tomorrow so will let you know how i get on. 
wozza
wozza
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If you are sacrificing the original you could cut them off and bond them onto the new CF one. There is a chance that if you scrape of the layer of silver they will be black ABS underneath.Smile

Carbon Copies Ltd
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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On a flat object like that and will very good release agents and good preparation you can do recesses if they are shallow.  Obviously you would fill the hole itself leaving just the countersunk recess.

A prime example is the recess on our subaru alternator cover:
http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Images/products/medium/subaru-impreza-alternator-belt-cover.jpg



And the shallower ones on our MR2 engine cover:
http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Images/products/medium/mr2-engine-cover.jpg


So it is possible to mould them and get a successful repeatable release.


The practicality of getting the carbon to stick exactly where you want it means it would be very hard to do those parts wetlay or resin infused, however pre-preg is dead easy as you can cut the fabric to any shape and it easily sticks where you want. Also lots of brute force can be used with blunt tools to force it into corners, the same kind of force that would shread normal fabrics.

If you wanted to do such things wetlay or infused then you would find it much easier with a ProFinish Carbon Fibre 2/2 TwillProFinish Carbon Fibre 2/2 Twill and some form of spray tack or applying when resin is tacky.  ProFinish can be neatly cut like pre-pregs and wont fall apart like normal fabrics do, so you can do some quite precise work with them.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
GO

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