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First mould attempt
First mould attempt
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jonnyl888
jonnyl888
posted 12 Years Ago
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Hi, just attempted making my first mould of a spoiler. So I pretty much followed the how to make a carbon bonnet video tutorials but one thing I didn't have was filleting wax. I used signboard all the way round and the inevitable happened. The gel coat seeped through under the part. What's worse was that it was difficult to get the chopped strand mat to stick into the edges without creating an air void which weakened the gel coat at the edges. As you see in the picture below, I got the basic shape and very nice shiny surface even with PVA, but the "mechanical lock" caused by the gel coat made me impatient and I ended up forcing the part out and cracking the edges around it. I really don't want this to go to waste, so is it worth repairing? Can I use fibreglass car body filler to do the job? Or is this a better way?
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12 Years Ago by
jonnyl888
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Jaydien
Jaydien
posted 12 Years Ago
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I'm a still at noob at this, so take everything I say with a grain of salt.
I saw this first tip on YouTube.
Get some woven roving and extract one thread of the weave. Use that thread on the hard angles BEFORE you lay anything else.
I think I also saw that guy just use clumps of individual fiberglass strands on top of the tacky gel coat and soaked it with resin. I might be wrong about that, though.
My personal THEORY is to lay the chopped strand mat in small sections. I've started two moulds like this so far. They are the unseen "bottom" sides of interior car panels which are extremly complex and have MANY right angles. I've only done one layer so far and my technique needs MUCH refining, but I think it could be a very promising course of action. It's a pain in the ass and is extremely time consuming. You need to measure, measure, measure. Everything must be cut before you start anything else.
I hope this isn't against the forum rules, but the YouTube video is by gasserglass, I believe. Their not well edited at all and very long. I would actually have to call it "unedited". They are very boring as it's basically just a dude going about his fiberglassing and talking story (i think you Brits call that jawing) like you're a dude just hanging out at his shop with him. However, you do pick up a good tip every now and then.
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First mould attempt
jonnyl888
-
12 Years Ago
I had a similar issue when making a wing mould, the CSM didn't get into the corners, even though I...
carboncactus
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12 Years Ago
Yea, I might end up binning it. I was looking at the fibreglass putty, which would make life so much...
jonnyl888
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12 Years Ago
[quote][b]jonnyl888 (10/02/2013)[/b][hr]Yea, I might end up binning it. I was looking at the...
carboncactus
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12 Years Ago
I'm a still at noob at this, so take everything I say with a grain of salt. I saw this first tip on...
Jaydien
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12 Years Ago
Also, just so you know, I've yet to make a single mould I would consider useable. I've made 5 so far...
Jaydien
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12 Years Ago
Are you using a finned/bristle roller when you lay up? You need to give the whole area a good going...
wozza
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12 Years Ago
I have had mixed results when trying to repair moulds. If it is being used for wet lay then you have...
wozza
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12 Years Ago
I didn't use a roller but I probably will next time. I used normal EL2 epoxy laminating resin and...
jonnyl888
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12 Years Ago
The Epoxy Resin could be the problem. Depending on which CSM you used epoxy won't break down the...
wozza
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12 Years Ago
Oh that makes sense. Does the uni-mould polyester resin more VOCs? I've been doing this in a shed...
jonnyl888
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12 Years Ago
Using chopped stand matt with epoxy powder bound. Emulsion bound for polyester or vynelester,working...
Shaneer22
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12 Years Ago
If you are working in a small space then the fumes from the polyester can be overpowering. But from...
wozza
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12 Years Ago
Oh ok, I think what I'm gonna try next is fibre putty for the annoying corners and edges, with...
jonnyl888
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12 Years Ago
watch these two vids--great stuff...
brasco
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12 Years Ago
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