Make a fender mold


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AndrewL92
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Ciao a tutti,
avrei bisogno di qualche consiglio per realizzare uno stampo per un parabordo. Il parafango è in fibra di vetro e vorrei realizzarlo in fibra di carbonio.
I miei dubbi riguardano i bordi che vanno verso l'interno e quindi creano angoli negativi che impediscono la creazione di un unico stampo.
Poiché questi bordi si trovano su quasi tutti i lati del paraurti, quale pensi sia il modo giusto di procedere?

Grazie mille


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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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AndrewL92 - 11/25/2020 12:44:18 AM
Hanaldo - 11/24/2020 9:57:07 PM
Oh I see, no dont do that. Resin will go everywhere and make a big mess, and you will likely still struggle to get a seal due the bolt holes.

Just run your sealant tape around the perimeter of the flange as it is and try to get it to seal like that. Good chance it won't, so then I would double bag and place the entire mould inside an envelope bag. The first bag will prevent resin from going where you dont want it, while the second will provide the seal. Just watch out for puncturing the second bag on the mould or your bolts.


Perfect, then proceed as you advised me.
In this regard, I had some questions:

1. if I use gelcoat, to make a bead between the flanges, as you advised, how long do I have to wait to close the flanges together? As soon as I apply the gelcoat?
And to proceed with the infusion?
Can i use a gelcoat additive?

2. How do I seal the bolt holes? By applying the gelcot in the hole and then screwing?

3. What reinforcement do you recommend for these fenders? Would it make sense to use lantor soric?

Thanks again for your availability



1. Yes, bolt the flanges together as soon as you have applied the gelcoat. In all likelihood you will find the gelcoat will be starting to thicken up as you are ready to bolt the flanges on, which is perfect. As long as you get them bolted together before the gelcoat cures too hard to allow that then you're fine.

2. I generally just run a 'ring' of gelcoat around the hole and that will seal it up when you bolt the flanges together. Having a small rattlegun will make it quicker to remove the bolts when you are done as you will likely find gelcoat gets squeezed up into the threads, but even if you don't have a rattlegun its not hard, the gelcoat doesn't stick well to steel bolts.

3. Depends totally on your application. For a race car, I'd be doing a single layer of 200g and a single layer of ~400g, a bit extra in the mounting points, and thats it. For a street car, I probably still wouldn't use a core, but I would probably do 2 layers of 200g, 1 layer of a 400g Kevlar, and 1 layer of a 400g carbon.
beliblisk
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Put mixed gelcoat in plastic food bag, squeeze it in one corner, twist bag around so you end up with all gelocoat trapped in one corner and then just nipp off tge corner (much like if you are baking cakes) and you will be able to apply nice lines quickly without any messSmile 

For layup you can go as low as one 200g cf followed by 200 cf/kevlar  hybrid as there is enough geometry on your side(extra 400g on the mounting points)..... for street car i normally go with 1mm in total for fenders. 




Edited 5 Years Ago by beliblisk
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