Here it is boys, something I like to think as the last step in getting a perfect part!

After stepping into the clearcoating/painting business I can tell you, with or without a paint both it is a total PITA. I cant stand clear coating a part after de moulding, then the clearcoat gets wavy or a bug in it. then i san and polish, still not perfect.

I'm starting to learn this real fast; the key to a perfect part, is taking a mould from a perfect part and polishing it there. I plan to make some really perfect molds, then try this.

 



 

The site says you can brush it on, we for my size parts that would be really connivent. Now matter what the surface of the part will be perfect but if your paint strokes on the back are to thick you may see your weave get a little wobbly.

When making parts smaller than ".5 meter" I think my cup gun is a bit much? think an air brush system would work?

 



If Brute Force Isn''''t working your not using enough...

Go read the info on GC50... If this is not UV protection why the heck am I even wasting my time with it???? why would I put this on then inject the part then take it out of the mold and clear coat it anyhow? Makes no sense...



If Brute Force Isn''''t working your not using enough...

GC50 is a UV protective layer. It's been well tested in this capacity and works as well as a clear coat. It's also very polishable and, even if you do want to 'detail' it afterwards then it's a good material to wet-flat and polish and it's a tougher surface than a clear-coat.

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales