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Lester Populaire
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Group: Forum Members
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+x+xMost infusion grade spray tacs are largely invisible. If they are causing you issues, you are probably using way too much. You don't need a lot - the vacuum should be doing most of the work. You just want to give a very very slight tac. If you are really struggling, you can also try using an in-mould coating first, and then that will make your spray tac completely invisible regardless of how much you use. Which spray are you using now Hanaldo? For visual applications i like to use isotacker from sicomin, and aerofix 2 for everything else as this one is much tackier and easier to work with. Used some other stuff when visiting other workshops and can't say there is a night and day difference between all the products I worked with. The isotacker does completely dissolve which is nice when used on the tool directly tho.
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chriscnf
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Group: Forum Members
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+xMost infusion grade spray tacs are largely invisible. If they are causing you issues, you are probably using way too much. You don't need a lot - the vacuum should be doing most of the work. You just want to give a very very slight tac. If you are really struggling, you can also try using an in-mould coating first, and then that will make your spray tac completely invisible regardless of how much you use. Which spray are you using now Hanaldo?
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Hanaldo
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Group: Forum Members
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Most infusion grade spray tacs are largely invisible. If they are causing you issues, you are probably using way too much. You don't need a lot - the vacuum should be doing most of the work. You just want to give a very very slight tac.
If you are really struggling, you can also try using an in-mould coating first, and then that will make your spray tac completely invisible regardless of how much you use.
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Fredrik Welen
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I don´t know why i didn´t think of that. Thanks for reminding me. I will add easy lease again and try again.
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Lester Populaire
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Group: Forum Members
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+x+xUnfortunately the Zyvax infusion spray tack is no longer manufactured. In order to hold these individual pieces of carbon on the mould’s surface we need to use some sort of spray tack, however, all of the spray tacks (including all of the so called infusion tacks) leave visible marks when used on the surface of the mould. This is because they are all designed for gelcoated or painted parts and not clear finish parts that are generally the norm for carbon fibre work. To overcome this, we do the following: Invisible Epoxy Infusion Spray-Tack 1. Start with a clean, small plastic ‘spritser’ bottle (any openable plastic bottle with a pump-action mister spray, like for hair-care products). 2. Mix up 10g of infusion resin with 3g of infusion hardener and pour into the bottle. 3. Add 10g of metholated spirits to the bottle (it must be purple meths, no white spirit, acetone, alcohol or anything else). 4. Shake the bottle thoroughly. 5. Spray a thin film of the spray tack over the surface of the mould. 6. Allow the meths to evaporate and wait around an hour or two for the epoxy to start reacting when it will become particularly tacky. 7. Stick your reinforcement to the tacky mould surface. When you do the infusion, you will find that the tiny amount of spray-tack on the surface will cross-link with the resin of the infusion epoxy and become completely invisible with not even a trace of anything on the surface of your parts! I just tried this and used Easy lease as release agent. It just crawl into small droplets and don´t smear out. Now I wounder how I will get it off. I just can´t seem to get a break in this project I am doing. Anyone knows were to get a invisable spray tack in EU europe suitable for resin infusion?  try spraying the spray tack onto the fabric.
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Fredrik Welen
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 53,
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+xUnfortunately the Zyvax infusion spray tack is no longer manufactured. In order to hold these individual pieces of carbon on the mould’s surface we need to use some sort of spray tack, however, all of the spray tacks (including all of the so called infusion tacks) leave visible marks when used on the surface of the mould. This is because they are all designed for gelcoated or painted parts and not clear finish parts that are generally the norm for carbon fibre work. To overcome this, we do the following: Invisible Epoxy Infusion Spray-Tack 1. Start with a clean, small plastic ‘spritser’ bottle (any openable plastic bottle with a pump-action mister spray, like for hair-care products). 2. Mix up 10g of infusion resin with 3g of infusion hardener and pour into the bottle. 3. Add 10g of metholated spirits to the bottle (it must be purple meths, no white spirit, acetone, alcohol or anything else). 4. Shake the bottle thoroughly. 5. Spray a thin film of the spray tack over the surface of the mould. 6. Allow the meths to evaporate and wait around an hour or two for the epoxy to start reacting when it will become particularly tacky. 7. Stick your reinforcement to the tacky mould surface. When you do the infusion, you will find that the tiny amount of spray-tack on the surface will cross-link with the resin of the infusion epoxy and become completely invisible with not even a trace of anything on the surface of your parts! I just tried this and used Easy lease as release agent. It just crawl into small droplets and don´t smear out. Now I wounder how I will get it off. I just can´t seem to get a break in this project I am doing. Anyone knows were to get a invisable spray tack in EU europe suitable for resin infusion?
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DANNYHOCKIN
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Group: Forum Members
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+xHello. What exactly do we mean with methylated spirits? Pure methyl? pure ethanol? Mix methyl and ethanol? Something else? Thank you. I believe it's the same as Denatured Alcohol. Can't wait to try this next week!
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Billis21
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Group: Forum Members
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Hello. What exactly do we mean with methylated spirits? Pure methyl? pure ethanol? Mix methyl and ethanol? Something else? Thank you.
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fgayford
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Group: Forum Members
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+xJust wanted to add a follow up post for how I got on using 10% methylated spirits. I've come to the conclusion that the epoxy print left on my previous attempt had something to with using fibreglass instead of Carbon. I'm basing this on the next attempt using carbon for the surface layer backed up with the same glassfibre mat used before, this worked perfectly where the carbon was in contact with the mould surface whereas one spot where the fibreglass was in contact with the mould flange left the same print as before. This is the finish I achieved on my latest completely carbon/kevlar version using the spraytack epoxy:   If I remember right there is a coating on fiber glass that aids in he wet out with polyester resin. This could be the contaminant that is giving you the problem. Fred
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Warren (Staff)
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Group: Administrators
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we would not recommend pure acetone as it actually breaks down the resin if left long enough. Methylated spirits tends to evaporate off without damaging the base resin.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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