Preventing Polyester Tooling Gelcoat From Ruining This Part?


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whitecel
whitecel
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Hey guys,
  Can anyone tell me how I would go about prepping this plastic fork guard from my motorcycle without the polyester tooling gel coat ruining the piece?  Painting it is not an option.

  Would I just layer the pva thick on the part since I'm not sure if mold release wax will work?

Thanks a bunch


Edited 11 Years Ago by whitecel
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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PVA is the only option. But spraying it is really the way to go. To be honest, if you can't spray the PVA, I'd switch to an epoxy tooling system. Brushing PVA can leave areas exposed, and styrene based tooling systems can be really unforgiving when that happens. 
Edited 11 Years Ago by Hanaldo
whitecel
whitecel
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I've got a compressor.  I only spray pva....that's cuz my brushing skills suck lol.  Ok...pva it is
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Good stuff, PVA is the way to go then! 
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Try doing it without waxing the part first. I find PVA on its own sprays on very nicely, and if you spray it on thick enough it almost demould as easily as a semi-perm. 
whitecel
whitecel
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I think I'll wax and pva since I can't take a chance at ruining the part.  The only problem with pva is that I can only spray it in my back yard.  Fricken bugs love to fly into it as its drying, ruining the damn thing.  
Edited 11 Years Ago by whitecel
carbonfibreworks
carbonfibreworks
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I rarely use PVA and just use Easy lease on the part and if used correctly you genuine part will be left in as new condition.
Regards Chris
Carbon fibre works LTD

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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Well is Easy-lease solvent based? I've tried Frekote on a few plastic trims, some it works but some I've destroyed. 

To be honest I actually think waxing increases the risk of damaging the part. Wax works well on compatible surfaces like 2k paints where all you are trying to do is stop the resin from sticking. But on incompatible parts, wax isn't going to do anything to prevent the resin from attacking the surface. One PVA will do that, and the wax might cause the PVA to fisheye leaving the surface exposed for the wax resin to attack. Food for thought anyway. 
FLD
FLD
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I would PVA it.  You need an effective barrier that can be applied without the solvent attacking the plastic.  I often spray PVA on an unwaxed plug and then apply one coat of wax onto the PVA.  Sounds wrong but the PVA really protects the parts and the wax on top makes the mould fall off.  Make sure you get a good coat of PVA though.  I use the blue stuff and apply a good few dust coats before a few full film coats.  The finished plug has a good blue finish so I'm sure its safe.
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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I concur ^

This is my latest plug. It's painted in yellow high build primer, so you can imagine how thick the PVA is to make it this colour. 

 
GO

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