Expanding polyurethane foam for plug deisgn?


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20_rc51_00
20_rc51_00
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Anyone use this type of material in the past? 

http://www.smooth-on.com/Rigid-and-Flexible/c10/index.html


There are various densities, I have tried the 3lb density but it seemed a bit too soft and the surface next to the mold that I poured it in seemed to stay soft and not hard like that exposed to the air. Also the cells on the mold side seemed to crush/pop on their own once pulled from the mold under atmospheric pressue. 



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I was thinking that a 8-10lb density would be better for shaping and then surface finishing.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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I've used it once, expanded 16 times in volume if I'm correct... the foam had a nice "skin" against the mouldsurface and was porous on the inside...like it should be Smile
Never had any problems with it

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




nmicro
nmicro
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Today i tried to make a plug with this material. I went for the Foam-IT 5 (10X expansion).

I'm not sure if the low temperature in the shop (15ºC) or incorrect mixing time will bring me problems.
The foam has a lot of soft spots an i'm finding very hard to demould.  The mould was waxed and with 4 coat of easelease.

Matthieu, in what kind of mould did you use the foam? Silicone? Epoxy? Polyester?



 
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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As far as I know you need another release agent... I've used APW instead of a "normal" composites release agent...
I did some tests with a mouldwas and was unable to remove the part... 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rRo1nZ2imI

In the video above I made a tutorial on how to work with it, the video was with a soft polyurethane but the process is exactly the same with rigid polyurethane

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




20_rc51_00
20_rc51_00
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demold was difficult for me too. I also used a semiperm for release on an epoxy mold. the surface against the mold was softer and the cells crushed very easily, not anywhere as rigid as the surface open to the air. 
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Out of interest, would this (or rather, the stuff you can get from hardware stores, eg. https://www.masters.com.au/product/902404820/fuller-fula-foam-fire-resistant-500g) be suitable for similar methods to that used in the EC pattern making tutorial? Ie. closed cell foam core (probably Corecell SAN foam) spine, then use expanding polyurethane foam instead of the PU foam blocks that EC uses? I know it would be a lower density, but would that be a huge issue? Would it still work fine with filler, etc?

Reason I ask, is local supply of PU foam is quite limited to me. Minimum order is 2500x1500mm sheets, which works out quite expensive. When I only want to make one smallish part, it makes it quite unaffordable... Would this be a cheap alternative?
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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It could surely work! make a skeleton out of wood for example, fill the gaps with PU-foam from spraycans from a DIY store an then sand.
I know a lot of carframe and bike-modelors using a similar method, sometimes with wireframe as well to create a better curve in models.
an other way of working is using insulation foam they sell in diy stores, It is mostly PU foam as well and can be very cheap!

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Unfortunately someone else will have to find out, I picked up some pourable 2-part PU foam this morning instead. $35 for 2kg, makes it cheaper than the stuff from hardware stores, if not a little harder to use. Will just pour it into ice cream containers to make my own blocks, gives me a much better density for patterns.

Thanks for the reply though Matthieu!
20_rc51_00
20_rc51_00
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Post pics if you can I would be very interested in following. 
GO

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