Westfield parts from a newbie

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Westfield parts from a newbie

Westfield parts from a newbie

Author	Message
Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Well that's interesting. Have you got any photos?
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Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	A quick update. Today was the first time I have seen the new scuttle panel outside in sunlight and I spotted areas of white embedded within the resin. I know this is where I sprayed the Aerofix 3, so I'm sad to say I can see where this spray glue has been used. Its not that bad really and you need to know where to look for it but it is visible. Warren, any more updates for the spray adhesive from the show? Craig Edited 11 Years Ago by Brian2fast
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TomDesign	TomDesign posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 454, Visits: 2.5K	no im simply asking you think these cards he used what im thinking to lay or you think to thin? also he said those cards reason polished - but for what i know resin polished affraid on sun uv and all resin like that or i mistaken?
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Same result as in surface finish or thickness or what?
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TomDesign	TomDesign posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 454, Visits: 2.5K	Thank you a lot im going to try to do this. any advise if i want to do like this sheet- 1 layer 200gr cf then and Soric 3mm then 1 layer 200gr cf on the back. you think i get same result as here? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztlzy2Q6oDA
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Nah overlap the second piece. So you only need to cut one piece perfectly (and to be honest, if you've got a couple of frayed fibres in there no one will ever notice unless you point it out), then the second piece can be longer and just sit over the top. If you are going for a v-weave join then you just want to make sure your weaves line up where it will be visible not where it overlaps.
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TomDesign	TomDesign posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 454, Visits: 2.5K	so you say first piece to cut straight then next piece from other side if goes to do longer and simply to put on top of first yes? or simply cut to perfect 2 pieces and to try to get best join? sorry for my english
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Brian2fast	Brian2fast posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 79, Visits: 1.3K	I didn't take any photographs when I was laying the first layer of fabric I'm afraid. I'll try and explain how i did it. I made paper templates for the shapes I would need for the first layer of Pro-finish fabric. The paper templates needed bigger edge relief cuts than the fabric did (as Hanaldo mentioned). Two edges of fabric would meet where my fingers are in the pic above. Instead of ragged join (I knew I would never get a neat join here) I used a strip of carbon spread tow (see link below). I put the spread tow in the mould first with spray glue, then the two bits of pro-finish fabric with the join hidden by the spread tow. https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/80g-15mm-carbon-fibre-spread-tow-ribbon The pro-finish fabric really makes things a lot easier for getting the weave nice and straight. It just doesn't drape around compound curves very good. Hope that makes sense! Craig
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TomDesign	TomDesign posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 454, Visits: 2.5K	any luck with images how to do that? so that would help me a lot
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Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 11 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	He is using set-weave carbon so it's much easier, but generally if you've got a shape that is too difficult to lay neatly without distorting the weave then you need to make relief cuts. Again, easier with set-weave fabric, but still possible to do with ordinary fabric if you are patient and gentle.
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