Well that's interesting. Have you got any photos? 

I tried taking a couple of pics. In the photographs it doesn't really look like what it is in real life tho. In the pic it looks like bubbles but its definitely not. Its like a milky white colour within the resin and its in areas I know sprayed the glue. 

Ah yep, I see it. Well I guess that confirms the IN2 resin isn't compatible which is both intriguing and unfortunate. I don't have any issues like that with the resin system I am using. I'd be interested to know what causes that. 

As I said before, make your own spray adhesive by mixing resin and hardener non-stoichometrically (not in the recommended ratio) with a big resin surplus, and dissolve the resulting sticky goo in a suitable solvent. This "semi-hardened glue" has a very long shelf life and since it is basically the same material as the infusion resin it will completely dissolve into and react with the resin during infusion.

As an added bonus, it uses materials you already have, you don't need to order it from obscure sources, doesn't cost you any shipping charges and custom fees and it's A LOT cheaper than any commercial product.

Hi Hanaldo

MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, it's a type of solvent. Not as aggressive as acetone so better for cleaning cosmetic parts, although it is more dangerous than acetone. Not to be confused with catalyst which is Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide. 

Hi All

Looking for opinions and advice. My latest part is the nosecone. Before I took a mould off the original I wet sanded the original GRP nosecone to get rid of some light scratches and pitting. But now the mould taken from it does not have the same sharp reflections as the original has. See pics.



Reflections on original nosecone, notice the straight reflections from the strip lights. This was after I wet sanded and machine polished.



Reflections from the mould. Picture was taken the same distance from the surface and at the same time. Reminds me of looking at the tiles at the bottom of a swimming pool! Pish....



Mould and original GRP nosecone.

So what has caused the ripply surface finish on the mould. I used the Unimould system. Followed the same procedure as I always have. Garage was at 20 degrees thorugh out the layup and cure. I use an electric fan heater.

I'm wondering if all my moulds would look like this but its just more noticeable on this due to the larger area on this mould? Or has there been some kind effect from heating when it was curing??

Unless anyone has any other suggestions I think I'm going to wet sand it, 800, 1200 then 1500 grade.

This finish reminds me of a cheap GRP spoiler I fitted to my 205 GTI when I was 19........

I can't help you with your current issue but I must say this is extremly inspireing (just read the whole thread) and I envy all that have such easy acces to quality material products. I got one more business to check next week but I fear their resins are basic cheap stuff - importing DG stuff is very complicated and expensive

The only thing I can think of is that you need to add a bit of bracing to the original nose cone when using it as the plug. I would also have added stiffners like foam lengths to keep the mould more rigid while curing.

Hi All