Curing pre-preg, tinting, mould-making, and bonding


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Jaydien
Jaydien
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I plan to remake the entire interior of my Evo of carbon fiber. Ceiling, floor, dash, door panels, and everything else except the seats. I may, however, make carbon fiber seat covers. It's mostly for cosmetics, but saving weight would be a plus. I'd also like to sell parts since I will have the moulds anyway, so quality is definitely a high priority. 
I would also, as much as possible, like to avoid doing anything to the part after it comes out of the mould. Spraying a clear coat, for example. 
I've been scouring your site, watching the videos, and reading the forums for weeks. I've found answers, but they have lead to more questions.

Questions, issues, and concerns:

As you probably know, interior panels of a car clip into or slide on to other panels. I know that I would have to make two sides of each panel and bond them together. The unseen "bottoms" of these panels are extremely complex.image.jpeg
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I've made two moulds so far. One with chopped strand mat and one with carbon fiber with very limited success. Neither of which I feel are useable. 
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I don't like working with chopped strand mat on these small parts and carbon fiber seems to be the most expensive of choices. I therefore plan to use your epoxy mould making putty. 
How do I make the actual part? I imagine I would use a casting resin, but which one would be the best to use for my goals? I'm guessing I should use the epoxy casting resin, but am unsure. 
Is it possible to make them with carbon fiber somehow? My idea was to stuff the complicated and thin parts with scrap fibers. Weight and cost, in that order, are my priorities. 

There are some parts made of metal that I would like to make with carbon fiber, however I've been lead to believe that gel coat on metal may crack with heat. How would I accomplish this task? 

I'd like to tint some of the carbon fiber. I understand there may be structural issues when doing so. I am not too concerned with that as these are interior parts.image.jpeg I have tinted carbon fiber previously and found that one layer snaps in half quite easily and two layers seems to be quite rigid. I'm not sure exactly what the tint was made of, but it is a liquid with a similar viscosity to acrylic paint made for models. I mixed it with the resin before adding the hardener and used it with every layer in a hand lay, and whilst skinning. 
Is it in any way possible to tint pre-preg?

I want UV protection, but do not want to spray anything on a de-moulded part.
Can I use the epoxy gel coat with the pre-preg?
With that question, can I tint the gel coat?
If I tint the gel coat only, will it achieve the same look as if I wet-out the fabric with the tinted resin? I've yet to apply the tinted resin over a previously laminated carbon fiber part and have depleted my materials. 

Curing pre-preg:
100 is the suggested optimum temperature. 
Does this temperature need to be maintained EXACTLY, or will some fluctuation between the suggested parameters be OK? 
Do I NEED an oven, or do I just need to achieve the recommend temperature? My oven is not big enough for some of the parts I want to make, but I do have HPS lights that get pretty damn hot and I believe I can achieve the recommended temperature with them. I currently can't measure the exact temperature because the view screen of the LCD thermometer I have cannot handle temperatures past 60.

Will the epoxy mould making kit be able to handle the temperatures needed for pre-preg curing?

If I choose to skin parts, can I vacuum bag or infuse them?

Will epoxy bond with leather? I wish to skin the top of my steering wheel. 

As I've stated previously, I wish to produce fully-cured carbon fiber seat covers. There are many dimples in the seat and I'd like to reproduce them as accurately as possible. 
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How would I make a mould for this? My idea is to use release film as a barrier and use epoxy putty to make the mould. 

And the weirdest for last.......Is epoxy safe for food stuffs? I want to make a dining set for no other reason than "just because". Lets face it, I'm on a carbon fiber kick and want to make everything I can find out of carbon fiber!
Shaneer22
Shaneer22
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Cant see photos resend or email me photos and I will point in right direction my email is shanebingham2265@yahoo.co.uk.  
Jaydien
Jaydien
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TomDesign
TomDesign
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like i say hardest not to manufacture stuff but to do mounting points Wink
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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Making clips and fixings is one of the challenges of composites part manufacture. I certainly wouldn't recommend making a inner and outer mould for some of those complicated trim panels as it would be horrendously complicated.  You can make mounting points using strips of carbon fibre cut and trimmed to suit then bonded into place. 

Another alternative is to use something like our SiliconeMould Resin Casting Starter Kit to make silicone moulds of the mounting stubs then cast resin copies which can be bonded into place.

There are of course other methods, you could even salvage the mounts from scrap parts and bond them in.  You just have to use a bit of inginuity to figure out the best solution. 

You don't have to keep the factory fixings. Plenty of people use discreet screws or even bond stuff in place, use velcro, double sided tape etc etc.

Moulding putty is a quick and easy way to make moulds for small parts. 

If you are moulding from a metal part, there is no reason the gelcoat would crack at room temperatures while you are making the mould.

In terms of tinting and UV protection, I would recommend our GC50Epoxy Compatible Polyester Gelcoat as it has a very high UV resistance and it will also provide a great surface finish if your mould is of a good quality.  You would then not need to lacquer the parts.  If you wanted to pigment the gelcoat, then you can do so with a polyester compatible pigment dispersion.

However you will need to experiment to find the right level to achieve what you desire.  The problem with achieving a tint without a gel coat is that the thickness of resin between the carbon fibres and the surface is very low thus the prevailing colour of the carbon tends to show through.

In terms of curing pre-preg, we recommend temperature is carefully controlled. We use a PID controller to ensure our oven and autoclave remain as close as possible to the required temperature. 

Using heat lamps etc would only work if you could know exactly that the temperature throughout the laminate got upto the required 100C.  You would need to measure that or try it out to see as surface temperature alone isnt necessarily enough to know the internal temperature of the laminate. 

The EpoxyMould Making Starter Kit is not specifically rated for high temperature useage with the HDT being close to 80 degrees C.  However some customers have got away with doing pre-preg using that kit after a proper post cure of the mould.  There is a risk in doing so and hence why we dont recommend that kit for high temperature curing. Instead we recommend the Uni-MouldMould Making Systemfor higher temperature applications including pre-preg.

Skinning doesn't need infusing or vacuum bagging.

The epoxy will bond to clean leather no problem as it is a rough surface, however the wheel will have a lot of foam under the leather so one layer of fabric may end up being quite weak.  Again you would have to experiment.

I cant see a picture of the seat so cannot comment other than to say you would need to ensure the mould does not stick to the part due to mechanical lock.



Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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