Standard vs. High Capacity Vacuum Pump


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CompositeSeb
CompositeSeb
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I've been reading topics on this very good forum and am ready to order. Something's stopping me though: I can't seem to decide between the two vacuum pump that EC proposes.
It looks like the standard pump is perfectly fine for infusion and most applications such as degasing RTV (that would be 90 to 95% of my use). But in some cases it might limitate me, for example for degasing more reactive resins.
I won't do big boats or parts. Most of my work will be from small to let's say maximum 2 sq meters carbon pieces.

I can afford the high capacity pump but if an application requires me to let it turn continuously for 15 hours then it seems like the electrical bill might be significantly higher than with the standard pump. 745W vs 185W. Or maybe it doesn't really matter and the difference should be simply increasing client's price accordingly.

Would be nice to know other users experiences. Leaning toward the high capacity pump right now. Maybe there are some uses where it makes a big (positive) difference that I haven't thought about yet.

Thanks

Seb
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Hi, 

I bought the smaller pump, this because I'm a student with low budget Smile and for most applications this pump is more than enough for me:
pulls a high level of vacuum compared to other pumps on ebay and so on... you get worth for your money!

I can't really follow you on the pump being on for 15hours? Once full vacuum is achieven and you have a perfect sealed bag and the infusion is done,
you could in theory shut down the pump. 

a wise women (my grandmother :p) keeps saying "we are not rich enough to buy cheap stuff" 
by this she means its better to buy the best there is instead of having to buy 4 times cheaper stuff and ending spending more this way.
So if you can afford the bigger pump I would do that, you never know if you eventually you end up making bigger parts and so on...

Kind regards, 

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




CompositeSeb
CompositeSeb
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I love your grandmother ! Exactly my thought.

About the 15 hours I know I will shut the pump off as soon as I clamp the lines (right after the piece is infused), but I see it looks like you need to let the pump on when you do vacuum pressing (sandwich panels etc...).

Regards.

Seb

p.s..: I saw your video of the infused helmet before I knew about EC. Very nice.
CompositeSeb
CompositeSeb
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Being able to degas quickly might be a very good thing for me since I want to do some resin casting as well. Looks like you get the best results by using pressure instead of vacuum (and I have experienced it), but it certainly doesn't hurt to quickly pull vacuum before.

Seb
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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hah thanks, I'm making more and more video's, now it's on hold due to exams i have till 1feb.
Never tested degassing under pressure, how does it work? When I cast pieces I heat the resin to quit a high temperature,
to get it less viscous and bubbles come out quit easily, but I have the adventage to use a big vacuum degassing chamber at school, 
and use my small vacuumpump for at home :p

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




CompositeSeb
CompositeSeb
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You are a true passionate Smile

Do you ever degas reactive resins such as polyurethane resins for example? In my experience and from a lot of people who cast such resins, putting your mold+resin in a pressure chamber "crushes" air bublles to the point where they're invisible to the eye. With that being said you can probably benefit from degassing too (before the pressure) but it has to be done quickly for sure.
Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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This is a tutorial I've made using a fast cast hard polyurethane...
hardenes out in about 10min, great product, doesn't need to be degassed, what I mostly do is put A and B in an oven at 60°C
to get them very fluid, than mix them, because it's so fluid no bubbles stay in the mixture Smile

looks like a nice thing to use pressure, will certenly try it out when I get the chance!

Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Edited 11 Years Ago by matthieutje65
CompositeSeb
CompositeSeb
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Yes. Warming resin is certainly a good idea, plus it probably removes a part of the humidity in the resin. Polyurethane are quite sensitive to that.
Post pressure might not be always necessary in that case. A word of caution though, pressure can be dangerous so you absolutely need the right chamber to do that.

Seb
fgayford
fgayford
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A painters pressure pot works great for casting and is safe. They are rated and have a relief safety valve. You can go to up to 50 PSI on some of them.

Fred
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