I am new to epoxy,i would like to cover oil painting i am doing in clear epoxy resin.give painting different aspect. can you put it on cold want it to dry hard and clear also what type of resin. any help would be appreciated. thank you

make a test panel to see if any reaction happens with the oils and for example epoxy resins.
polyester resins change color(green-ish) when they exotherm(cure) and epoxy does as well(amber) if it is thicker it is more noticeable.
 like if you cast in epoxy say a hockey puck, it will yellow as it cures.
with brush or spray on i dont think the epoxy change will be an issue but do be sure and test it out. if you are very particular about your colors being covered the amber color of the cured epoxy will change some of the colors in ways you may not expect.
if minor changes are not an issue, then no worries. also what you use for hardener(activator) can influence the color( if it has it's own color)

CarbonFiberCreations

I think you shouldn't use laminating epoxy, you can find special resins for that... polyester will mostly shrink more than epoxy.

Hi Blinky,

Matthieu's got it about right. Epoxy is the common choice for this type of flow coating but be aware that epoxy (even the best of them) will yellow over time, caused by UV. On tabletops, bar tops etc. this is not really considered a problem and is not very noticable but on an artwork where accurate colour might be very important then it's worth considering.

Our Epoxy Coating Resin would be the right choice from our range. The key things when doing this process are:

1. Work in a warm (20'C +), dust-free environment. You need the picture perfectly level. Warm the epoxy and its hardener in some warm water (still in their containers) to lower the viscosity.
2. Mix them together very thoroughly, no process shows the effects of an improperly mixed resin worse the flow coating. Mix thoroughly for 5 mins then transfer to a new container and get a new mixing stick and mix for another 5 mins before pouring.
   
3. After you've poured the resin, allow it to flow naturally over the edge (or up to the barrier). Once the resin is reasonably flat use a blow-torch to gently heat the surface. The carbon dioxide from the blow torch flame (along with the heat) is incredibly effective at popping small air bubbles trapped in the resin. Continue this process until the surface is completely free off any trapped air bubbles.
4. Pour the layer quite thick, at least 2mm, so that the self leveling can occur. If you pour less than 2mm then the surface is likely to have a slight 'ripple' to it.
   

Please remember my advice on the UV stability though and if this is a major concern then I would suggest a 2k polyurethane lacquer / clearcoat. It won't have the hardness, thickness or self leveling of the epoxy flow coat but it will be UV stable so it's a choice you'll need to make.




I hope this helps, Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales

Thank you very much for the time in putting this on. the video is perfect,just what i need to get started many thanks

matt thats bril thanks