COATING ON TOP OF GLASSCAST 10/50


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Martincox
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My current project is taking a beautiful but rough, uneven, full of defects burl of hardwood and making it into a table top. It’s odd-shaped and, as I want the top to retain that odd shaped, surrounding it in a dam wasn’t possible. I used GlassCast 10/50 in several layers to fill the many voids. That’s been successful although, after sanding, there are some parts that are back to wood whilst most have a coating of resin so that the top is even enough to function properly. I now want to finish the top. Any kind of self-levelling product would just fall off the edge. Ideally, I’d like a satin finish and, if this were a normal wood-only top, I would use a brush on wax-oil or, if I wanted a better finish, apply 2 part lacquer with a sprayer.

Is using 2 part lacquer preceded by lacquer primer going to work on top of the resin? Will I be able to see the difference between the lacquer-on-wood and lacquer-on-resin areas?
A couple of the voids go right through the piece and I have polished these so that it is clear. I have doubts about the lacquer adhering to these areas. Am I right and, if so, what can I do?

I could take another piece and trial all of this but I thought this must be a challenge others have faced and beaten.

Thanks


Edited 4 Years Ago by Warren (Staff)
Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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You can just spray a 2k clear coat directly on to the epoxy, no need for a primer. Just follow your specific clear coats instructions on panel prep, which is normally a thorough clean and then abrade with 400-600 grit paper before spraying. This will give you a mechanical key for adhesion, so the paint will bond perfectly to the resin. Dont worry about the cloudiness that the sanding scratches will impart to the resin prior to clear coating, the clear coat will restore full clarity and gloss.

You shouldn't be able to see much difference between the areas where you have rubbed through to the wood, although this may change over time. The areas where the resin is much thicker will yellow faster than the thinner areas. So the big voids that go all the way through may end up looking yellower than the surrounding areas. This is just the nature of resin and there isnt much you can do about it. While I havent used GlassCast personally, I understand it is a high quality modern epoxy, and so it should yellow very slowly. But in my experience, ALL resins will yellow, it is just a matter of how long it takes. It could be 2 years it could be 20 years, you just won't know.
Martincox
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Thank you for the response. Very much appreciated
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