Brake cooling duct fabrication question


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AlpineCoupe
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Happy to report that the new mold worked! Thanks to all for the suggestions! Used FMS, Loctite 700, and then about 9 coats of partall wax and the part slid off of the mold while I was removing the peel ply!
Bagged:


Out of the mold pre-trim:


And finally trimmed with the first one I made:



I'm pretty sure the one on the left (first one I made on the old mold) is way too resin rich. The one I de-molded yesterday seems to have a much better resin/ fiber ratio. I'm no expert though, maybe someone can look at the pictures and see if that seems right?

Again thanks for all the help!


AlpineCoupe
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AlpineCoupe - 11/28/2019 9:19:39 PM
MarkMK - 11/28/2019 8:46:03 AM
Looks great and no doubt you'll have learned a lot from the experience that'll stand you in good stead when making more

As mentioned previously, if you're building-up a mould from scratch, rather than looking to create one from your existing part in the usual way, it'd likely be best to give it a fibre-glass skin on top of any foam base. This should, hopefully, help everything hold together better when de-moulding.

That said, de-moulding from a new mould can require some force, so weaknesses such as a relatively 'soft' surface coat or layers of filler underneath can be prone to breakage, even if quite thinly coated on a firm grp base

. If you're looking to make a few more, then it might be worth creating a traditional gel coat/grp or epoxy mould, which should prove a lot more reliable.

Yeah, I should have done the fiberglass as mentioned earlier in the thread. No doubt that will be part of the plan on the next one.

I think I hesitated to make the mold in a traditional way (gel coat, fiberglass) because I wasnt sure how it would work to have just a hollow mold. As I type this I'm realizing there is no reason why it wouldnt work.

Maybe that will be my next try!

Just bumping this back up because I made another mold of the part, this time using the more traditional gel coat and fiber glass approach. Hope to get some carbon fiber laid up on it this week. 


Edited 5 Years Ago by AlpineCoupe
AlpineCoupe
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MarkMK - 11/28/2019 8:46:03 AM
Looks great and no doubt you'll have learned a lot from the experience that'll stand you in good stead when making more

As mentioned previously, if you're building-up a mould from scratch, rather than looking to create one from your existing part in the usual way, it'd likely be best to give it a fibre-glass skin on top of any foam base. This should, hopefully, help everything hold together better when de-moulding.

That said, de-moulding from a new mould can require some force, so weaknesses such as a relatively 'soft' surface coat or layers of filler underneath can be prone to breakage, even if quite thinly coated on a firm grp base

. If you're looking to make a few more, then it might be worth creating a traditional gel coat/grp or epoxy mould, which should prove a lot more reliable.

Yeah, I should have done the fiberglass as mentioned earlier in the thread. No doubt that will be part of the plan on the next one.

I think I hesitated to make the mold in a traditional way (gel coat, fiberglass) because I wasnt sure how it would work to have just a hollow mold. As I type this I'm realizing there is no reason why it wouldnt work.

Maybe that will be my next try!

MarkMK
MarkMK
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Looks great and no doubt you'll have learned a lot from the experience that'll stand you in good stead when making more

As mentioned previously, if you're building-up a mould from scratch, rather than looking to create one from your existing part in the usual way, it'd likely be best to give it a fibre-glass skin on top of any foam base. This should, hopefully, help everything hold together better when de-moulding.

That said, de-moulding from a new mould can require some force, so weaknesses such as a relatively 'soft' surface coat or layers of filler underneath can be prone to breakage, even if quite thinly coated on a firm grp base

. If you're looking to make a few more, then it might be worth creating a traditional gel coat/grp or epoxy mould, which should prove a lot more reliable.
AlpineCoupe
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Well got the part made... and ran into a problem when de-molding it.

Turns out the mechanical lock was too much for the connection between the foam and the board I adhered it to. So a one and done mold. On a positive note though, the part looked good when I got all of the foam out of the center!

On to attempt number 2 at making a mold!

Bagged:

Attempted de-molding, and mold failure:


Foam removed, still needs to be trimmed:


AlpineCoupe
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MarkMK - 11/11/2019 10:04:01 PM
That approach to laying down the fabric sections looks okay. You could likely do away with a separate surface piece at the horizontal base and just make the side section pieces a touch longer so that they extend down onto the base. Some diagonal cuts made at the overlapped corners should make everything look quite neat when finished



Thanks! That's a good suggestion!
MarkMK
MarkMK
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That approach to laying down the fabric sections looks okay. You could likely do away with a separate surface piece at the horizontal base and just make the side section pieces a touch longer so that they extend down onto the base. Some diagonal cuts made at the overlapped corners should make everything look quite neat when finished



AlpineCoupe
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I think I'll use PVA on the first one I make just to ensure everything comes apart. 

As far as how to lay the carbon fabric I was thinking about using 5 different pieces with slight overlap to cover the piece,  like in the picture below. Does anyone see any issues with doing it this way? 


Lester Populaire
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AlpineCoupe - 11/4/2019 2:19:45 AM
Just wanted to say that I moved forward with primer and clear coat on this mold. Going to do some finish sanding and then seal the mold in some way. Thinking I might go with partall wax and PVA just took be sure I don't get any lock up. Can anyone confirm this to be a reasonable idea? If not, no offense taken I'd rather do it the right way! 


I usually just use a paste wax (formula five) for the plug and as i had good luck with partall in the past I'm sure this would work. However, as it is a brake duct and you probably don't have big requirements in the surface quality you could use some PVA on top of that. Belt and suspenders type approach.
I hate PVA and think it is too fiddly tho

AlpineCoupe
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Just wanted to say that I moved forward with primer and clear coat on this mold. Going to do some finish sanding and then seal the mold in some way. Thinking I might go with partall wax and PVA just took be sure I don't get any lock up. Can anyone confirm this to be a reasonable idea? If not, no offense taken I'd rather do it the right way! 


Edited 6 Years Ago by AlpineCoupe
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