Flanges for infiusion?

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Flanges for infiusion?

Author	Message
Classicarbon	C Classicarbon posted 5 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
C Group: Forum Members Posts: 86, Visits: 639	Just made mould for my bumper. For future how to make flanges in 90 degrees.My are straight and I think I gonna struggle to put bag around
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MarkMK	MarkMK posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 338, Visits: 2K	On parts that have vertical sides, I often use blocks of closed cell foam (as sold be EC) stuck on flush with the parts' edge. You can then stick lengths of polypropylene sheet or signboard to the blocks to create flanges that will be horizontal to the parts' sides. If you want to create a few mm's of additional height to the part sides, to allow for the creation of a curved transition between the mould sides and the flange using filleting wax, you can also glue some fairly narrow lengths of the 3mm foam sheet or other material to the inside of the part prior to gluing on the blocks of foam. Allow it to sit a few mm's proud of the part sides all the way around. Make sure it's fixed firmly enough to stay in place as you add a bead of wax around the perimeter as you'll need to press and smooth the wax onto the narrow vertical flange that slightly overlaps the horizontal one also
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MarkMK	MarkMK posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 338, Visits: 2K	Also, if it proves too tricky to try and bag your existing bumper mould conventionally, it might be better just to envelope bag it, especially if you don't intend to use it several times I'd look to give the reverse a good sanding first, though, to remove any obvious sharp points, including around the edges. You could also look to cover with a layer of something like breather fabric and then gaffa tape a section of bagging film over that, which should limit the resin residue you're left to deal with in the event that you might want to use the mould again
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Classicarbon	C Classicarbon posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
C Group: Forum Members Posts: 86, Visits: 639	+x MarkMK - 9/2/2019 4:41:24 AM On parts that have vertical sides, I often use blocks of closed cell foam (as sold be EC) stuck on flush with the parts' edge. You can then stick lengths of polypropylene sheet or signboard to the blocks to create flanges that will be horizontal to the parts' sides. If you want to create a few mm's of additional height to the part sides, to allow for the creation of a curved transition between the mould sides and the flange using filleting wax, you can also glue some fairly narrow lengths of the 3mm foam sheet or other material to the inside of the part prior to gluing on the blocks of foam. Allow it to sit a few mm's proud of the part sides all the way around. Make sure it's fixed firmly enough to stay in place as you add a bead of wax around the perimeter as you'll need to press and smooth the wax onto the narrow vertical flange that slightly overlaps the horizontal one also You mean that kind of stuff? https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/rigid-foams/pu-medium-density-model-board.html
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Warren (Staff)	Warren (Staff) posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Administrators Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 8K	If you tidy the mould up you will be able to bag that either to the flange or envelope bag it. A narrower width tubular bagging film, for example. may well be perfectly fine with no issues and easy to seal at each eand. Warren Penalver Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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MarkMK	MarkMK posted 5 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 338, Visits: 2K	Yes, that foam is ideal to use and is dead easy to cut and shape with something like a fine-toothed saw and a sanding block Always handy to have around if you ever look to create any patterns from scratch also
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