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Asurada
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Group: Forum Members
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Hello everyone, I recently made some things with glasscast10 resin, I want to make 0 bubbles of transparent resin parts. In the use of found a very troublesome thing, glasscast10 in the mixing, it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin, I used the vacuum degassing and hot air gun heating way to eliminate bubbles, but it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin. At first I thought the vacuum degasification way is the most ideal way to eliminate bubbles, but glasscast10 in the vacuum degasification process, there will be a lot of small bubbles, more than the appearance of non-degasification bubbles, this is what reason? The following photo is a workpiece I just made out of a degasification method.Hello everyone, I recently made some things with glasscast10 resin, I want to make 0 bubbles of transparent resin parts. In the use of found a very troublesome thing, glasscast10 in the mixing, it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin, I used the vacuum degassing and hot air gun heating way to eliminate bubbles, but it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin. At first I thought the vacuum degasification way is the most ideal way to eliminate bubbles, but glasscast10 in the vacuum degasification process, there will be a lot of small bubbles, more than the appearance of non-degasification bubbles, this is what reason?  Thickness:20mm Then I tried vacuum degassing and hot air gun two methods together to defoaming, but I probably use hot air gun repeatedly to blow to the heating used four or five times to be able, basically I recognize the bubble elimination of almost, with the hand touch silicone mold will feel the resin has become hot, in a period of time the resin has begun to gel. It's ideal to do this, but there are still a few bubbles. Shown in the following figure.  Thickness:30mm
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Asurada
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 10,
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Then I try pouring the thicker parts again, the deeper the more difficult to eliminate the bubbles, the thickness of this workpiece is about 60mm, is the shape of a diamond, I use degassing and hot air gun to eliminate bubbles does not have much effect. The following figure:Then I try pouring the thicker parts again, the deeper the more difficult to eliminate the bubbles, the thickness of this workpiece is about 60mm, is the shape of a diamond, I use degassing and hot air gun to eliminate bubbles does not have much effect. The following figure:  Then I try pouring the thicker parts again, the deeper the more difficult to eliminate the bubbles, the thickness of this workpiece is about 60mm, is the shape of a diamond, I use degassing and hot air gun to eliminate bubbles does not have much effect. The following figure:  Is there any good way, please? Whether there is a special epoxy resin defoamer can be added to the resin, so that the bubble elimination.
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Tom (Staff)
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Group: Moderators
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+xHello everyone, I recently made some things with glasscast10 resin, I want to make 0 bubbles of transparent resin parts. In the use of found a very troublesome thing, glasscast10 in the mixing, it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin, I used the vacuum degassing and hot air gun heating way to eliminate bubbles, but it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin. At first I thought the vacuum degasification way is the most ideal way to eliminate bubbles, but glasscast10 in the vacuum degasification process, there will be a lot of small bubbles, more than the appearance of non-degasification bubbles, this is what reason? The following photo is a workpiece I just made out of a degasification method.Hello everyone, I recently made some things with glasscast10 resin, I want to make 0 bubbles of transparent resin parts. In the use of found a very troublesome thing, glasscast10 in the mixing, it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin, I used the vacuum degassing and hot air gun heating way to eliminate bubbles, but it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin. At first I thought the vacuum degasification way is the most ideal way to eliminate bubbles, but glasscast10 in the vacuum degasification process, there will be a lot of small bubbles, more than the appearance of non-degasification bubbles, this is what reason? Thickness:20mm Then I tried vacuum degassing and hot air gun two methods together to defoaming, but I probably use hot air gun repeatedly to blow to the heating used four or five times to be able, basically I recognize the bubble elimination of almost, with the hand touch silicone mold will feel the resin has become hot, in a period of time the resin has begun to gel. It's ideal to do this, but there are still a few bubbles. Shown in the following figure. Thickness:30mm Good Morning, I would just like to make double sure on which product you are using. Would it be possible to confirm that you are using the GlassCast 10 or GlassCast 50?
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oekmont
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Group: Forum Members
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It seems to me that your are working in too cold conditions. The diamond looks clear on the surface where you heated the resin. The room temperature should be 25°C and the resin should keept at this temperature at least several hours before mixing.
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Asurada
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 10,
Visits: 954
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+x+xHello everyone, I recently made some things with glasscast10 resin, I want to make 0 bubbles of transparent resin parts. In the use of found a very troublesome thing, glasscast10 in the mixing, it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin, I used the vacuum degassing and hot air gun heating way to eliminate bubbles, but it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin. At first I thought the vacuum degasification way is the most ideal way to eliminate bubbles, but glasscast10 in the vacuum degasification process, there will be a lot of small bubbles, more than the appearance of non-degasification bubbles, this is what reason? The following photo is a workpiece I just made out of a degasification method.Hello everyone, I recently made some things with glasscast10 resin, I want to make 0 bubbles of transparent resin parts. In the use of found a very troublesome thing, glasscast10 in the mixing, it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin, I used the vacuum degassing and hot air gun heating way to eliminate bubbles, but it is difficult to eliminate the bubbles in the resin. At first I thought the vacuum degasification way is the most ideal way to eliminate bubbles, but glasscast10 in the vacuum degasification process, there will be a lot of small bubbles, more than the appearance of non-degasification bubbles, this is what reason? Thickness:20mm Then I tried vacuum degassing and hot air gun two methods together to defoaming, but I probably use hot air gun repeatedly to blow to the heating used four or five times to be able, basically I recognize the bubble elimination of almost, with the hand touch silicone mold will feel the resin has become hot, in a period of time the resin has begun to gel. It's ideal to do this, but there are still a few bubbles. Shown in the following figure. Thickness:30mm Good Morning, I would just like to make double sure on which product you are using. Would it be possible to confirm that you are using the GlassCast 10 or GlassCast 50? Glasscast 10
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Asurada
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Group: Forum Members
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+xIt seems to me that your are working in too cold conditions. The diamond looks clear on the surface where you heated the resin. The room temperature should be 25°C and the resin should keept at this temperature at least several hours before mixing. Is it heavily affected by temperature? I am using the resin in 35 ℃ environment insulation 1 one hours after the use, but the curing and operation of the ambient temperature will be above 15 degrees Celsius
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oekmont
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Group: Forum Members
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Absolutely. At 25° it has got a far lower viscosity than at 15°. That's why the heatgun removes the surface bubbles. Your thinner parts are better, because it's easier to warm them up. Your diamond looks like it's clear in a thin layer, where the heat gun could get it to temperature. Unfortunately resin has a bad heat distribution, so it has to be warmed up to temperature several hours before the pour.
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JasonFL
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A pressure pot set to 90 PSI will solve all your problems. Apply pressure slowly after setting the part in the pot and youll be good to go.
Jason
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Rich (Staff)
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Hi Asurada,
Are you pouring these in one go or building up layers? GlassCast10 is limited to 10mm per layer to avoid excessive exotherming during the cure - exceeding 10mm will decrease the curing time significantly and could well result in air entrapment as the resin gels too quickly and thus the air is not emitted efficiently. This coupled with you high working temperatures is likely the cause of the issue.
You may be better with the slower GlassCast50. and working at 20-25'C.
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