glasscast3


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Davidbac
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Hello
I am new to this and glad that I can get help here, my problem is this :

I have Make a river table using glasscast 50, sanded it down then layed a lay of glasscast 3 coat (3mm = 1kg/m2) I heated the surface gently to remove the bubbles using a hot air blower, this worked fine, I could se more small bubbles continuing to come but they bubbles away by the next day (most of them but not all) but I can see the surface is not perfectly smooth there are a lot of small indentations in he surface a bit like an orange peal effect. The room was heated to around 18 degrees.

I am thinking of sanding down the the surface once its dry (after 72 hours) to remove any surface bubbles and give a key for the next layer, warm the resin to reduce its viscosity allowing it to run out better , heat the room up to 25 degrees, pour another 3mm layer and then hope. 

Any thoughts ????

Thanks David


Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Davidbac - 3/2/2019 8:18:05 AM
Hello
I am new to this and glad that I can get help here, my problem is this :

I have Make a river table using glasscast 50, sanded it down then layed a lay of glasscast 3 coat (3mm = 1kg/m2) I heated the surface gently to remove the bubbles using a hot air blower, this worked fine, I could se more small bubbles continuing to come but they bubbles away by the next day (most of them but not all) but I can see the surface is not perfectly smooth there are a lot of small indentations in he surface a bit like an orange peal effect. The room was heated to around 18 degrees.

I am thinking of sanding down the the surface once its dry (after 72 hours) to remove any surface bubbles and give a key for the next layer, warm the resin to reduce its viscosity allowing it to run out better , heat the room up to 25 degrees, pour another 3mm layer and then hope. 

Any thoughts ????

Thanks David


your thinking is the way to go, just make sure that after sanding that first layer flat again you don't have dust trapped into the 'orange peel' like you call it before doing the final pour


Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Davidbac
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Matthieu Libeert - 3/6/2019 12:58:34 PM
Davidbac - 3/2/2019 8:18:05 AM
Hello
I am new to this and glad that I can get help here, my problem is this :

I have Make a river table using glasscast 50, sanded it down then layed a lay of glasscast 3 coat (3mm = 1kg/m2) I heated the surface gently to remove the bubbles using a hot air blower, this worked fine, I could se more small bubbles continuing to come but they bubbles away by the next day (most of them but not all) but I can see the surface is not perfectly smooth there are a lot of small indentations in he surface a bit like an orange peal effect. The room was heated to around 18 degrees.

I am thinking of sanding down the the surface once its dry (after 72 hours) to remove any surface bubbles and give a key for the next layer, warm the resin to reduce its viscosity allowing it to run out better , heat the room up to 25 degrees, pour another 3mm layer and then hope. 

Any thoughts ????

Thanks David


your thinking is the way to go, just make sure that after sanding that first layer flat again you don't have dust trapped into the 'orange peel' like you call it before doing the final pour

Thanks Mat for the reply, Ive tried sanding down, cutting and polishing but cant get it as clear and shiny as the GC3 finish unfortunatly, is it possible ?? 

Matthieu Libeert
Matthieu Libeert
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Davidbac - 3/6/2019 1:23:46 PM
Matthieu Libeert - 3/6/2019 12:58:34 PM
Davidbac - 3/2/2019 8:18:05 AM
Hello
I am new to this and glad that I can get help here, my problem is this :

I have Make a river table using glasscast 50, sanded it down then layed a lay of glasscast 3 coat (3mm = 1kg/m2) I heated the surface gently to remove the bubbles using a hot air blower, this worked fine, I could se more small bubbles continuing to come but they bubbles away by the next day (most of them but not all) but I can see the surface is not perfectly smooth there are a lot of small indentations in he surface a bit like an orange peal effect. The room was heated to around 18 degrees.

I am thinking of sanding down the the surface once its dry (after 72 hours) to remove any surface bubbles and give a key for the next layer, warm the resin to reduce its viscosity allowing it to run out better , heat the room up to 25 degrees, pour another 3mm layer and then hope. 

Any thoughts ????

Thanks David


your thinking is the way to go, just make sure that after sanding that first layer flat again you don't have dust trapped into the 'orange peel' like you call it before doing the final pour

Thanks Mat for the reply, Ive tried sanding down, cutting and polishing but cant get it as clear and shiny as the GC3 finish unfortunatly, is it possible ?? 

Sure it's possible, depends on how you sand then I think. Watch some car detailing videos on youtube on how to sand and polish, might help you. Assuming your GC3 is well applied and flat ofcourse Smile 


Matthieu Libeert
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website:
www.mat2composites.com




Davidbac
D
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Matthieu Libeert - 3/6/2019 1:31:20 PM
Davidbac - 3/6/2019 1:23:46 PM
Matthieu Libeert - 3/6/2019 12:58:34 PM
Davidbac - 3/2/2019 8:18:05 AM
Hello
I am new to this and glad that I can get help here, my problem is this :

I have Make a river table using glasscast 50, sanded it down then layed a lay of glasscast 3 coat (3mm = 1kg/m2) I heated the surface gently to remove the bubbles using a hot air blower, this worked fine, I could se more small bubbles continuing to come but they bubbles away by the next day (most of them but not all) but I can see the surface is not perfectly smooth there are a lot of small indentations in he surface a bit like an orange peal effect. The room was heated to around 18 degrees.

I am thinking of sanding down the the surface once its dry (after 72 hours) to remove any surface bubbles and give a key for the next layer, warm the resin to reduce its viscosity allowing it to run out better , heat the room up to 25 degrees, pour another 3mm layer and then hope. 

Any thoughts ????

Thanks David


your thinking is the way to go, just make sure that after sanding that first layer flat again you don't have dust trapped into the 'orange peel' like you call it before doing the final pour

Thanks Mat for the reply, Ive tried sanding down, cutting and polishing but cant get it as clear and shiny as the GC3 finish unfortunatly, is it possible ?? 

Sure it's possible, depends on how you sand then I think. Watch some car detailing videos on youtube on how to sand and polish, might help you. Assuming your GC3 is well applied and flat ofcourse Smile 

Cheers

Lester Populaire
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If the resin is not perfectly cured you will not get a perfect gloss either. so make sure your resin is well cured before attempting to polish.
GO

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