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Randy Mugford
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7,
Visits: 23
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+xThe only time I have seen a scummy film like that on GlassCast has been when the temperature has dropped or the humidity was a bit high either generally or locally. We found that if you leave it, the exotherm tended to drive out the moisture with it going clear again. However when we tried to mix it in or scrape it, it just picked up more resin as you did so making it look worse. Thanks again. After scraping it off ( took an hour) it was clear and fine. Leaving it on the last pour creates a blush when it dries that is impossible to get rid of, and worsens over time. I do live by the ocean, in a humid environment, but heat the drying room with electric heater, and kept the moisture at 40% in the room. Urgh! Thanks for you knowledge!. i will send an image of the finished project. Just not waiting for the the resin to get to a stage where I can manipulate it by have and ad texture.
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Warren (Staff)
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Group: Administrators
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Visits: 8.5K
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The only time I have seen a scummy film like that on GlassCast has been when the temperature has dropped or the humidity was a bit high either generally or locally. We found that if you leave it, the exotherm tended to drive out the moisture with it going clear again. However when we tried to mix it in or scrape it, it just picked up more resin as you did so making it look worse.
Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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Randy Mugford
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7,
Visits: 23
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+x+x+x+x+x+x+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks! As above I would say moist related or temperature changes, unproper mixing, and now that you talk about heat gun, there is a big chance you "burned" your epoxy, if you leave your heatgun to long on a spot it will create a thin dull film. Could it also be that your wood is not completely dry? When I make my tables I leave the wood in an oven for over a week to remove any moist in the wood that might transfer into your resin when the resin goes exothermal and creates big temperatures causing the moist to "vape" into your resin causing bubbles and haze. Thanks. I'll put this in point form to make it quicker ... A. The wood is kiln dried laminate, and has 4 coats water base finish (this haze is apparent without contacting the wood). B. With or without the heat gun, same effect. C. It is mixed for 10 plus minutes, in a clear container to insure proper mixing. About three cups mixed at a time, to lesson improper mixing. Room set at 22 degrees, humidity at 40%. The haze is immediately after pouring on about 25 % of the surface, and it is random. The surface area is 12 square feet, and the resin barely contacts the wood. The haze happens within the first minute. It is only noticeable a an angle with the the right light direction. I have learned after 15 pours now to lightly scrap it off after each pour . When you scrap it it immediately developed with strands, with micro bubbles in it. I basically scrap it to the edges now and remove it. Over 12 square feet it is a hassle. If I do not remove it, it becomes white -ish and scally looking after a few day, and is impossible to remove, or mask.Thanks for your help!! Much appreciated Thanks for the extra info! Do you mix your resin by hand or by machine? do you use the 2-cup mixing system where you mix in the first cup then transfer everything in the second cup and mix again? this is the safest way to ensure proper mixing. Is your resin stored in the same room as where you pour it? moving your resin from a warm place to a cold place or the way might cause that skin on top. By hand with a metal stir stick. I have not done a double cup transfer, but will try that in a few hours as I do another pour. Resin is stored in the same room as casting. If I can I will take an image later today when I do the pour and scrap the haze off. Unless of course it does not happen. Thanks again  hope it wont happen but if it does share some pictures visuals are always easier to find answers  The camera could not catch it properly, however you can see that once scrapping the film off, it clumps together and is white. this happens with 1 minute for the pour  
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Matthieu Libeert
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 955,
Visits: 3.4K
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+x+x+x+x+x+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks! As above I would say moist related or temperature changes, unproper mixing, and now that you talk about heat gun, there is a big chance you "burned" your epoxy, if you leave your heatgun to long on a spot it will create a thin dull film. Could it also be that your wood is not completely dry? When I make my tables I leave the wood in an oven for over a week to remove any moist in the wood that might transfer into your resin when the resin goes exothermal and creates big temperatures causing the moist to "vape" into your resin causing bubbles and haze. Thanks. I'll put this in point form to make it quicker ... A. The wood is kiln dried laminate, and has 4 coats water base finish (this haze is apparent without contacting the wood). B. With or without the heat gun, same effect. C. It is mixed for 10 plus minutes, in a clear container to insure proper mixing. About three cups mixed at a time, to lesson improper mixing. Room set at 22 degrees, humidity at 40%. The haze is immediately after pouring on about 25 % of the surface, and it is random. The surface area is 12 square feet, and the resin barely contacts the wood. The haze happens within the first minute. It is only noticeable a an angle with the the right light direction. I have learned after 15 pours now to lightly scrap it off after each pour . When you scrap it it immediately developed with strands, with micro bubbles in it. I basically scrap it to the edges now and remove it. Over 12 square feet it is a hassle. If I do not remove it, it becomes white -ish and scally looking after a few day, and is impossible to remove, or mask.Thanks for your help!! Much appreciated Thanks for the extra info! Do you mix your resin by hand or by machine? do you use the 2-cup mixing system where you mix in the first cup then transfer everything in the second cup and mix again? this is the safest way to ensure proper mixing. Is your resin stored in the same room as where you pour it? moving your resin from a warm place to a cold place or the way might cause that skin on top. By hand with a metal stir stick. I have not done a double cup transfer, but will try that in a few hours as I do another pour. Resin is stored in the same room as casting. If I can I will take an image later today when I do the pour and scrap the haze off. Unless of course it does not happen. Thanks again hope it wont happen but if it does share some pictures visuals are always easier to find answers
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website: www.mat2composites.com  
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Randy Mugford
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7,
Visits: 23
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+x+x+x+x+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks! As above I would say moist related or temperature changes, unproper mixing, and now that you talk about heat gun, there is a big chance you "burned" your epoxy, if you leave your heatgun to long on a spot it will create a thin dull film. Could it also be that your wood is not completely dry? When I make my tables I leave the wood in an oven for over a week to remove any moist in the wood that might transfer into your resin when the resin goes exothermal and creates big temperatures causing the moist to "vape" into your resin causing bubbles and haze. Thanks. I'll put this in point form to make it quicker ... A. The wood is kiln dried laminate, and has 4 coats water base finish (this haze is apparent without contacting the wood). B. With or without the heat gun, same effect. C. It is mixed for 10 plus minutes, in a clear container to insure proper mixing. About three cups mixed at a time, to lesson improper mixing. Room set at 22 degrees, humidity at 40%. The haze is immediately after pouring on about 25 % of the surface, and it is random. The surface area is 12 square feet, and the resin barely contacts the wood. The haze happens within the first minute. It is only noticeable a an angle with the the right light direction. I have learned after 15 pours now to lightly scrap it off after each pour . When you scrap it it immediately developed with strands, with micro bubbles in it. I basically scrap it to the edges now and remove it. Over 12 square feet it is a hassle. If I do not remove it, it becomes white -ish and scally looking after a few day, and is impossible to remove, or mask.Thanks for your help!! Much appreciated Thanks for the extra info! Do you mix your resin by hand or by machine? do you use the 2-cup mixing system where you mix in the first cup then transfer everything in the second cup and mix again? this is the safest way to ensure proper mixing. Is your resin stored in the same room as where you pour it? moving your resin from a warm place to a cold place or the way might cause that skin on top. By hand with a metal stir stick. I have not done a double cup transfer, but will try that in a few hours as I do another pour. Resin is stored in the same room as casting. If I can I will take an image later today when I do the pour and scrap the haze off. Unless of course it does not happen. Thanks again
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Matthieu Libeert
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 955,
Visits: 3.4K
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+x+x+x+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks! As above I would say moist related or temperature changes, unproper mixing, and now that you talk about heat gun, there is a big chance you "burned" your epoxy, if you leave your heatgun to long on a spot it will create a thin dull film. Could it also be that your wood is not completely dry? When I make my tables I leave the wood in an oven for over a week to remove any moist in the wood that might transfer into your resin when the resin goes exothermal and creates big temperatures causing the moist to "vape" into your resin causing bubbles and haze. Thanks. I'll put this in point form to make it quicker ... A. The wood is kiln dried laminate, and has 4 coats water base finish (this haze is apparent without contacting the wood). B. With or without the heat gun, same effect. C. It is mixed for 10 plus minutes, in a clear container to insure proper mixing. About three cups mixed at a time, to lesson improper mixing. Room set at 22 degrees, humidity at 40%. The haze is immediately after pouring on about 25 % of the surface, and it is random. The surface area is 12 square feet, and the resin barely contacts the wood. The haze happens within the first minute. It is only noticeable a an angle with the the right light direction. I have learned after 15 pours now to lightly scrap it off after each pour . When you scrap it it immediately developed with strands, with micro bubbles in it. I basically scrap it to the edges now and remove it. Over 12 square feet it is a hassle. If I do not remove it, it becomes white -ish and scally looking after a few day, and is impossible to remove, or mask.Thanks for your help!! Much appreciated Thanks for the extra info! Do you mix your resin by hand or by machine? do you use the 2-cup mixing system where you mix in the first cup then transfer everything in the second cup and mix again? this is the safest way to ensure proper mixing. Is your resin stored in the same room as where you pour it? moving your resin from a warm place to a cold place or the way might cause that skin on top.
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website: www.mat2composites.com
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Randy Mugford
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7,
Visits: 23
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+x+x+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks! As above I would say moist related or temperature changes, unproper mixing, and now that you talk about heat gun, there is a big chance you "burned" your epoxy, if you leave your heatgun to long on a spot it will create a thin dull film. Could it also be that your wood is not completely dry? When I make my tables I leave the wood in an oven for over a week to remove any moist in the wood that might transfer into your resin when the resin goes exothermal and creates big temperatures causing the moist to "vape" into your resin causing bubbles and haze. Thanks. I'll put this in point form to make it quicker ... A. The wood is kiln dried laminate, and has 4 coats water base finish (this haze is apparent without contacting the wood). B. With or without the heat gun, same effect. C. It is mixed for 10 plus minutes, in a clear container to insure proper mixing. About three cups mixed at a time, to lesson improper mixing. Room set at 22 degrees, humidity at 40%. The haze is immediately after pouring on about 25 % of the surface, and it is random. The surface area is 12 square feet, and the resin barely contacts the wood. The haze happens within the first minute. It is only noticeable a an angle with the the right light direction. I have learned after 15 pours now to lightly scrap it off after each pour . When you scrap it it immediately developed with strands, with micro bubbles in it. I basically scrap it to the edges now and remove it. Over 12 square feet it is a hassle. If I do not remove it, it becomes white -ish and scally looking after a few day, and is impossible to remove, or mask.Thanks for your help!! Much appreciated
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Matthieu Libeert
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 955,
Visits: 3.4K
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+x+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks! As above I would say moist related or temperature changes, unproper mixing, and now that you talk about heat gun, there is a big chance you "burned" your epoxy, if you leave your heatgun to long on a spot it will create a thin dull film. Could it also be that your wood is not completely dry? When I make my tables I leave the wood in an oven for over a week to remove any moist in the wood that might transfer into your resin when the resin goes exothermal and creates big temperatures causing the moist to "vape" into your resin causing bubbles and haze.
Founder MAT2 Composites X Sports
website: www.mat2composites.com
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Randy Mugford
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 7,
Visits: 23
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+x+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly. Thank you. I will double my mix time and see what happens. I thought amine blush was a moisture reaction. I wondered if the heat gun caused the reaction. Once again thanks!
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Lester Populaire
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 311,
Visits: 13K
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+x+xHi Randy, the concept of the table looks great and you should be able to get a perfect/flawless finish so we'd like you to get to the bottom of the cause of this problem. In the first instance, what type of plastic/material are you using as the mould surface? Does it self-release (like Polypropylene) or do you use a release agent; if you use a release agent, what type are you using? Thanks for the reply. No release agent is being used. I cast it on a very dense Polypropylene, almost glass finish. Releases easy. I apply on coat 1/4 inch thick, then after 12 hours place the wood structure in it, and pour 3 more coats each at about 1/2 inch. I never noticed it originally while pouring it, but after the job was complete the white scales started to show up and got more noticeable over time. Initially I thought it could be too much moisture, but the temp is at 22 and the moisture is very low. I noticed today after an initial pour of i/4 inch i had a film develop on about 20% of the surface ( only detectable at a certain angle) that was almost at a tacky stage after 10 minutes. I used a flat blade and removed the film, which them turned milky, and disposed of it. Problem is I cannot do this after I place the wood in. The eventual top side of the furniture piece has been and likely again will be flawless, it is the back side where the issue is, which is the side i am pour each layer on, as a result of doing the piece upside down. That looks like amine blush type thing to me. I'd bet it is due to measuring inaccuracy or not well mixed resin. Big quantities can be hard to mix properly.
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