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Fasta
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 468,
Visits: 3.5K
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+x+x+x+x+x+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped? It had some stiffness to begin with and the resin coating just made it stiffer. The parts I made off them were a bit too stiff with 200g carbon cloth, 300g glass cloth and another 200g carbon cloth. In hindsight I might consider just a 165g glass and a 200g carbon. This will keep the new part more flexible so it can flex easy to correct any error in the original mould. To make the parts in this male mould one off technique is a bit of an art compared to a mould but making proper moulds is of course very time consuming and too expensive for the customer. Why are you mixing carbon and fibreglass? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7bQYEt_qtU&t=5s In the video he is really only referring to proper loaded structures like an actual race car wing or yacht mast for example. For a car interior part that is just cosmetic there is literally no loads involved and so nothing will ever come near breaking. I am just saving some cost on carbon fibre. Mixing glass and carbon using pre pregs is another story and can create distorted parts different to your moulds. Fair comment, but you mentioned using fibreglass to improve it's flexibility. The flexibility is dictated by the carbon, not the fibreglass :-) Relative to my original parts (200g cf, 300g glass, 200g cf) mentioned, in future I would have removed one layer of carbon and would use a lighter fibreglass (165g glass, 200g cf), it's basically just thinner and more flexible. The thickness makes a difference too.
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Steve Broad
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 408,
Visits: 4.1K
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+x+x+x+x+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped? It had some stiffness to begin with and the resin coating just made it stiffer. The parts I made off them were a bit too stiff with 200g carbon cloth, 300g glass cloth and another 200g carbon cloth. In hindsight I might consider just a 165g glass and a 200g carbon. This will keep the new part more flexible so it can flex easy to correct any error in the original mould. To make the parts in this male mould one off technique is a bit of an art compared to a mould but making proper moulds is of course very time consuming and too expensive for the customer. Why are you mixing carbon and fibreglass? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7bQYEt_qtU&t=5s In the video he is really only referring to proper loaded structures like an actual race car wing or yacht mast for example. For a car interior part that is just cosmetic there is literally no loads involved and so nothing will ever come near breaking. I am just saving some cost on carbon fibre. Mixing glass and carbon using pre pregs is another story and can create distorted parts different to your moulds. Fair comment, but you mentioned using fibreglass to improve it's flexibility. The flexibility is dictated by the carbon, not the fibreglass :-)
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drippy
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 32,
Visits: 388
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+x+x+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped? It had some stiffness to begin with and the resin coating just made it stiffer. The parts I made off them were a bit too stiff with 200g carbon cloth, 300g glass cloth and another 200g carbon cloth. In hindsight I might consider just a 165g glass and a 200g carbon. This will keep the new part more flexible so it can flex easy to correct any error in the original mould. To make the parts in this male mould one off technique is a bit of an art compared to a mould but making proper moulds is of course very time consuming and too expensive for the customer. awesome! Thank for the info.
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Fasta
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 468,
Visits: 3.5K
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+x+x+x+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped? It had some stiffness to begin with and the resin coating just made it stiffer. The parts I made off them were a bit too stiff with 200g carbon cloth, 300g glass cloth and another 200g carbon cloth. In hindsight I might consider just a 165g glass and a 200g carbon. This will keep the new part more flexible so it can flex easy to correct any error in the original mould. To make the parts in this male mould one off technique is a bit of an art compared to a mould but making proper moulds is of course very time consuming and too expensive for the customer. Why are you mixing carbon and fibreglass? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7bQYEt_qtU&t=5s In the video he is really only referring to proper loaded structures like an actual race car wing or yacht mast for example. For a car interior part that is just cosmetic there is literally no loads involved and so nothing will ever come near breaking. I am just saving some cost on carbon fibre. Mixing glass and carbon using pre pregs is another story and can create distorted parts different to your moulds.
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Steve Broad
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 408,
Visits: 4.1K
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+x+x+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped? It had some stiffness to begin with and the resin coating just made it stiffer. The parts I made off them were a bit too stiff with 200g carbon cloth, 300g glass cloth and another 200g carbon cloth. In hindsight I might consider just a 165g glass and a 200g carbon. This will keep the new part more flexible so it can flex easy to correct any error in the original mould. To make the parts in this male mould one off technique is a bit of an art compared to a mould but making proper moulds is of course very time consuming and too expensive for the customer. Why are you mixing carbon and fibreglass? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7bQYEt_qtU&t=5s
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Fasta
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 468,
Visits: 3.5K
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+x+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped? It had some stiffness to begin with and the resin coating just made it stiffer. The parts I made off them were a bit too stiff with 200g carbon cloth, 300g glass cloth and another 200g carbon cloth. In hindsight I might consider just a 165g glass and a 200g carbon. This will keep the new part more flexible so it can flex easy to correct any error in the original mould. To make the parts in this male mould one off technique is a bit of an art compared to a mould but making proper moulds is of course very time consuming and too expensive for the customer.
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Furrari
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Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
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Dippy. I’m not at the doing stage of this job yet. I’m at the thinking, planning and asking advise stage at the moment.
Great looking job of inside the boot.
Steve. Picture of car. Picture of part later.
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drippy
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 32,
Visits: 388
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+xI have done a similar job to make new carbon boot interior for a Subaru. To do these ones I removed the panels and coated the carpet with a thick type sandable polyester resin and sanded it smooth so that I could mould the new carbon skins directly over the old shapes and release them away after. Then the new parts also needed resin coating etc to get the nice finish. Click To Enlarge Click To Enlarge How did you get it to keep it's shape when making the mold? Was the resin you used solid enough to keep it's shape? Did it have a form of OEM cardboard that helped?
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Steve Broad
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 408,
Visits: 4.1K
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+xFasta. That is an impressive piece of work. I hope mine turns out as well as that.Steve. Do you mean the current job, the intended job or the car ( also known as the Yellow Beast) itself.Mick. Hi Mick Photos of the area/parts you plan to make. A photo of the car would be fun to see :-) Steve
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Furrari
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Group: Awaiting Activation
Posts: 63,
Visits: 99
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Fasta. That is an impressive piece of work. I hope mine turns out as well as that.
Steve. Do you mean the current job, the intended job or the car ( also known as the Yellow Beast) itself.
Mick.
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