Hi,
I'm part way through my river table project, and was hoping that after the main pour I would be left with a slab I could take somewhere to be planed down to 25mm (my wood originally being 27mm thick and slightly warped).

However, upon measuring, it appears at one end the depth of the resin is approx 25mm and the other end 20mm deep (whoops, I obviously didn't pay enough attention to the levelling!).

I could plane down to 20mm but would rather top up, so that I have a level surface and a slab around 25mm deep throughout. What's the best way to approach this with fully cured Glass Cast 50?

The wood is still contained in the polypropylene box, and I was hoping that I could lightly sand the resin surface in place with 80 grit paper, vacuum well, before pouring the top up layer.

Would this affect the nice clear finish of the resin at all? The surface as it stands is very slightly rippled/wavy where the resin joins the wood (possibly got too hot during the cure? Main pour was under 25mm but room temp was 27C), but I expect that isn't an issue as I'll key the surface all over and the additional pour will self level (properly level this time).

Any advice appreciated, I'm happy to take the time hand sanding, but just concerned about potentially losing that lovely crystal clear finish to the resin.




Thanks,
Sam.

Hi Sam,

27C is a bit too warm for such a thick pour with wood - the wood insulates the resin so its hard for the heat to escape so the slight waveyness may well be the heat. However, other than that there looks to be no damage so shouldn't be an issue.

In terms of layering over the top, you need to key the surface with a 240 grit paper then clean all the dirt off before pouring.  The new resin fills in the scratches on the surface so you should retain the  clear finish.


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant