Very special 3 part video guide showing every single product, process and step needed to start with an original steel vehicle panel (like a bonnet/hood, boot/trunk, wing/fender etc.) and make a top quality carbon fibre replacement.

We have created this video series because the questions we get asked the most are 'how do I make my own carbon fiber hood' or 'how do I make a carbon fibre boot' and clearly the answer is pretty long and complicated because there are lots of steps along the way between starting off with the original steel part and fitting a gorgeous, light weight, stunning looking carbon fibre replacement. In this video series (around 1hr in total) we show you all the materials, teach you the skills and explain the process from start to finish. If you use these materials and follow these steps correctly you will get the results you hope for.

For a complete list of all the products used in each video in the series, please view the project (in full HD quality) in our Online Composites Learning Centre.

Part 1 - Preparing the Pattern, Adding Barriers and Making the Inner and Outer Mould

Preparing the part with chemical release agent
Adding barriers using fluted sign-board
Taping off any holes/details
Using the Uni-Mould system - gel coat, coupling coat, main reinforcement
Demoulding, repairing, polishing and prepairing the moulds

Here's the video. Let me know what you think:



Part 2 - Making the Carbon Fibre Inner Skin and Outer Skin

Preparing the moulds with release agent
Spraying epoxy compatible polyester gel coat
Resin infusion of the outer skin using 200g carbon and Lantor Soric SF 2 core
Resin infusion of the inner skin using 200g carbon and 660g carbon
Demoulding



Part 3 - Trimming the Carbon Fibre Skins, Adding Bonding Fasteners and Assembling the Finish Part

Trimming the inner skin using a Dremmel with a Perma-Grit wheel
Glueing in the bonding fasteners for the hinge fixings
Glueing in the keep for the latch mechanism
Bonding the inner and outer skins to eachother
Trimming and finishing the outer skin to finish the part



Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales

Thanks for the great videos guys, good job ! Just a quick question if you desired to have a cowl induction or hood scoop on that hood what would be the best method of doing this. 

Hi Hanigan,

You could make the intake scoop as a completely separate part and just bond it on like any aftermarket scoop.

If you wanted it to be integrated into the bonnet itself then you'd need to create the exact shape of the scoop on your original bonnet; although in theory you could make this removable afterwards I really don't think that in practice this would be viable - you would want to feather it in with filler and then spray primer over the whole modified bonnet by which time the chances of being able to re-use the original bonnet would be gone.

The shape of a scoop (particuarly its inlet mouth) would probably dictate that your upper mould would need to be a split mould (made in at least 2 sections) in order for it to be possible to release the part from the mould. This complicates matters somewhat but is by no means a deal-breaker. Take a look at Andy's thread about the rear clip for his noble and you'll see that he managed to have multiple splits on his mould and then made the part in much the same way as we do in this video.

I hope this helps and wish you all the best with your project.

--Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales

Hi Matt

I have watched your videos over and over and have learned a lot of new tricks. Thank you very much for sharing. I have been into fiberglass (mainly polyester ) for about 25 years.

I tried your method of making flanges with sign board and was amazed how fast it went. I haad my doubts about hot glue sticking to it , but it worked fine. I ordered your yellow wax which worked so much easier than the pattern clay I was using. 

Do you ship resins into Canada?

Thanks

Fred

Thanks for the videos it's was really informative. My question is in this case (fiat 500 hood) what was the weight of the finished product compared to the original one?

How much weight of the carbon fiber hood compared to the original one??

Do you have anymore details on the extraction system and also the cutting tool as I am pretty sure it's not dremel man thanks

Hi,

The cutting tool really is a Dremel - we've had it years, it's amazing and you can get all of the replacement parts for it. For a long time they stopped making it (it's from the Professional series) but the good news is that it looks like they've started making it again. I haven't used one of the new ones but if it's as good as the old one then it would make a great investment. They're calling it Fortiflex this time:
http://www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/ocs/category/6135/fortiflex%E2%84%A2-system/

The extractor arm is a Plymovent 'Flex'. Maybe we should look into stocking both of these as we get plenty of enquiries and they're not that easy to pick up. A word of warning though, they're both top-end professional kit, not hobby tools and so they're not cheap (although worth every penny):

http://www.plymovent.co.uk/uk/products/extraction_arms/plastic_tube_arms/flex.aspx

--Matt

Matt Statham
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Sales

thanks

Having seen an infusion demo years ago and watching as the resin nicely skirted around the sides leaving a dry patch in the centre I've always dismissed it and layed up by hand using release film and breather to take out the excess resin.  Thought I'd watch this as It seems to give a slightly better finish.  I was surprised at the outer skin being just 1x200g each side.  I guess I over engineer my parts (they are mega rigid) as I'd have at least 2x200 and I'd be wary of it!  Where there are particularly dificult compound shapes is there a risk with a single layer like this spreading the tows and showing the core material?

I'm also interested in the final weight of this project.