new guy wanting to get into making specific parts nobody else does for hotrods


new guy wanting to get into making specific parts nobody else does for hotrods
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turbofreek
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i have a gen3 hemi powered dodge dart(1967) and i am wanting to make some carbon fiber stuff that nobody in america produces or willing to produce unless a rediculous amount of money is offered.  then they charge double that.  so in saying that.  i would like to make some carbon fiber stuff and see how difficult or simple it is or is not.  i am quite hesitant as it seems quite intimidating when watching videos of others doing molds.  

making the molds does it destroy the part used?
how many times is the molds good for?

is the molding materials difficult to obtain?
Hanaldo
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There is always a risk of damaging or completely destroying the original when making a mould, but it isn't guaranteed to happen - it is certainly possible to make a mould without damaging anything, you just need to take care and be very sure that you don't have any bad draft angles or mechanical locks, and be extremely careful and meticulous with your release agent.

A high quality mould will last hundreds of pulls provided all the materials are compatible and you're using a good quality release agent. One stick is all takes to destroy a mould that could have made hundreds of parts.

As for the difficulty in obtaining materials, I believe America can be a little bit limited but I'm sure if you hunt around you will be able to find what you need. If you have the budget for the freight, Easy Composites will be able to sort you out with most of the stuff you'll need, and you can rest easy that you're using top quality materials.

 I will just say though, I have been doing this professionally here in Australia for the last 5 years, and one thing I have thing I have really come to understand is that there is a reason people charge as much as they do for these things. There is a HELL of a lot of work involved in getting a good quality part, and unless you are doing it as a hobby then it just isn't worth the time you will spend on doing a part. Unless you know you are going to use a mould atleast 15-20 times, then you do need to charge people what seems a ridiculous amount, otherwise you will be working for free. 

That said, it has been paying my bills for the last 5 years, so it isn't a totally impossible game to play - you will find those parts that just sell very well, and you will find people that are willing to pay what you are asking to get custom things done. The question becomes how short you are willing to sell yourself for the sake of making parts cheaper than anyone else does.

MarkMK
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I can completely echo what Hanaldo said

The time alone that can go into producing most 'one-off' parts from scratch really does push the real cost above what most would expect to pay.

In everything that you attempt to do from here on, good preparation and use of the right materials will pay off. The actual process of making a mould is quite basic but things can go wrong if simple steps aren't adhered to closely. We've all messed-up at some point but, hopefully, learned the most from these mistakes along the way

Once you've identified the materials and processes that you'd like to use, just try things out on something fairly small and then transfer your learning to bigger things once you're comfortable that the materials work for you. I think that the US is pretty well served for nearly everything that you'd need but, as Hanaldo said, the stuff that EC sells is well proven with plenty of back-up support available to help you get the most from them
Edited 6 Years Ago by MarkMK
turbofreek
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MarkMK - 3/19/2018 7:55:08 AM
I can completely echo what Hanaldo said

The time alone that can go into producing most 'one-off' parts from scratch really does push the real cost above what most would expect to pay.

In everything that you attempt to do from here on, good preparation and use of the right materials will pay off. The actual process of making a mould is quite basic but things can go wrong if simple steps aren't adhered to closely. We've all messed-up at some point but, hopefully, learned the most from these mistakes along the way

Once you've identified the materials and processes that you'd like to use, just try things out on something fairly small and then transfer your learning to bigger things once you're comfortable that the materials work for you. I think that the US is pretty well served for nearly everything that you'd need but, as Hanaldo said, the stuff that EC sells is well proven with plenty of back-up support available to help you get the most from them

thanks guys.  i am just wanting to make valve covers and a hood for my car.  maybe a dash and trunk lid some day.  being i am looking at 1500 for the valvw covers minimum, 2500 for the hood(flat stock hood) its rediculous to say the least.  hood can be pin on for all i care.  i just want to lose the weight the best i can.

Hanaldo
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Honestly - not bad prices at all, I would be charging double that for just the moulds. 

Consider this - the mould for the bonnet is what, maybe 1200mmx1500mm or so? Add 5" of flanges all round, so you're looking at roughly about 2.5-3sqm of total surface area. That means that the materials alone to make a good quality mould that size are going to be around the $800 mark, and that's assuming you do just want the outer skin and pin it on later (which comes with its own fitment issues, as you still need to work out hinge mounting solutions unless you just want to use 4 pins and don't care too much about panel alignment). Then, assuming your original bonnet is in perfect condition with good quality 2k paint and doesn't need any refinishing to get it ready for pulling a mould, you're also looking at 3-4 days labour to prep, flange, layup, trim, demould, clean up the mould. Hopefully it all goes well and there's no little bits of damage on the mould that need fixing, as that's likely another days labour. From a fabricators perspective you also want to factor in a little bit of compensation for any damage done to the original, as the owners never understand that it is always a risk and always want to hold you responsible for any scratches or chips or paint damage done to their original - which might be fair enough, but you don't want to be out-of-pocket for something like that so you need to account for the risk.

Then once the mould has been polished up and released and is ready for its first pull, you're looking at atleast $400-$500 in materials for a good quality item. There's another day in laying that up, demoulding, trimming. Then if you want the finish to last for any decent amount of time, you need to clear coat it, so that's another expense and process. You're already up to ~$1200-$1500 just in expenses, so now the fabricator is only making MAYBE $1000 profit for what is likely 20-30 hours worth of work, ignoring any overheads and out-goings that may be involved. Honestly from my point of view - I wouldn't be doing the job for that sort of income, no way.


I don't mean to try to talk you out of what you're doing at all, I really do think people learning to so this stuff themselves is great and I encourage it. It is much cheaper when it is just a hobby because you don't have to pay yourself a wage at the end of the day. I am just often on the receiving end of opinions like this, people telling me that what I'm charging is ludicrous when they have no idea what is involved. Composites really don't lend themselves to one-off pieces, obviously if you take those same above numbers but multiply the output from the mould by 20-30 then it is extremely worth it and very good value, it isn't much work at all when you're dividing it over dozens of parts. But for one or two parts, you need to make sure you are getting your money's worth for the effort you are putting in.
Edited 6 Years Ago by Hanaldo
turbofreek
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Hanaldo - 3/20/2018 2:50:25 AM
Honestly - not bad prices at all, I would be charging double that for just the moulds. 

Consider this - the mould for the bonnet is what, maybe 1200mmx1500mm or so? Add 5" of flanges all round, so you're looking at roughly about 2.5-3sqm of total surface area. That means that the materials alone to make a good quality mould that size are going to be around the $800 mark, and that's assuming you do just want the outer skin and pin it on later (which comes with its own fitment issues, as you still need to work out hinge mounting solutions unless you just want to use 4 pins and don't care too much about panel alignment). Then, assuming your original bonnet is in perfect condition with good quality 2k paint and doesn't need any refinishing to get it ready for pulling a mould, you're also looking at 3-4 days labour to prep, flange, layup, trim, demould, clean up the mould. Hopefully it all goes well and there's no little bits of damage on the mould that need fixing, as that's likely another days labour. From a fabricators perspective you also want to factor in a little bit of compensation for any damage done to the original, as the owners never understand that it is always a risk and always want to hold you responsible for any scratches or chips or paint damage done to their original - which might be fair enough, but you don't want to be out-of-pocket for something like that so you need to account for the risk.

Then once the mould has been polished up and released and is ready for its first pull, you're looking at atleast $400-$500 in materials for a good quality item. There's another day in laying that up, demoulding, trimming. Then if you want the finish to last for any decent amount of time, you need to clear coat it, so that's another expense and process. You're already up to ~$1200-$1500 just in expenses, so now the fabricator is only making MAYBE $1000 profit for what is likely 20-30 hours worth of work, ignoring any overheads and out-goings that may be involved. Honestly from my point of view - I wouldn't be doing the job for that sort of income, no way.


I don't mean to try to talk you out of what you're doing at all, I really do think people learning to so this stuff themselves is great and I encourage it. I am just often on the receiving end of opinions like this, people telling me that what I'm charging is ludicrous when they have no idea what is involved. Composites really don't lend themselves to one-off pieces, obviously if you take those same above numbers but multiply the output from the mould by 20-30 then it is extremely worth it and very good value, it isn't much work at all when you're dividing it over dozens of parts. But for one or two parts, you need to make sure you are getting your money's worth for the effort you are putting in.

wow.  thank you.  you definitely opened my eyes to overall costs of material.  that is amazing and sadening at the same time. lol  sounds like fiberglass is my overall cost beneficiary.  never dreamed the material was so darn much.

Hanaldo
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Don't get me wrong, you could make it A LOT cheaper if you used lesser materials. I could probably make the same mould for $200-$250, and a final carbon part for maybe $200. But the quality goes WAY down at the same time. Personally, I don't see the point in doing anything half assed and poor quality, I don't put materials that belong in a swimming pool on a car. 
Warren (Staff)
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It also depends on on your specific market.  There seems to be plenty of market for cheap fibreglass hoods with a single layer of carbon on top for the "ricer" or import market but other markets like the more classic cars and muscle cars generally want higher quality parts if they are spending big bucks.

Going for the bottom end of the market can cause you hassle sometimes.  Strangely people spending bottom dollar seem to expect more for their money which is a bit odd. 


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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