Using Vacuum for covering parts in CF.

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Using Vacuum for covering parts in CF.

Author	Message
Hanaldo	Hanaldo posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 2.5K, Visits: 28K	Aha... I hadn't realised you were trying to skin the inside of that lip as well. That is always going to be a struggle. Do you actually NEED to cover the inside of the lip? It doesn't appear to be visible once the leather boot is fitted? In which case, I would simply paint it black and trim the carbon back flush with the top of the lip. If vacuum works for you and you can do it without getting creases in the top then stick with it, there's no reason not to. What I meant with bridging is that vacuum isn't very good at getting into the inside radii, so it tends to just fill it with resin instead. If you aren't getting that problem, then vacuum is a solution!
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Interloper393	Interloper393 posted 6 Years Ago Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 90, Visits: 634	Buddy your over complicating things here.. Key the part with 120 grit Tack spray and stick the cloth to the part, if you push excess cloth into the whole fisn't you with be able to wrap the inside too. Apply your first resin coat and wait for it to cure. TrI'm excess off and apply resin coats as normal
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Interloper393	Interloper393 posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 90, Visits: 634
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Interloper393	Interloper393 posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 90, Visits: 634	All don' without vac bags
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fibernoob	fibernoob posted 6 Years Ago Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 34, Visits: 134	+x Interloper393 - 1/20/2018 10:13:24 AM Nice parts! Well done.
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fibernoob	fibernoob posted 6 Years Ago Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 34, Visits: 134	+x Interloper393 - 1/20/2018 10:10:41 AM Buddy your over complicating things here.. Key the part with 120 grit Tack spray and stick the cloth to the part, if you push excess cloth into the whole fisn't you with be able to wrap the inside too. Apply your first resin coat and wait for it to cure. TrI'm excess off and apply resin coats as normal Ok - got your point... and thanks for the tips. But the idea was to try and get the CF into tight sports and complicated bits of the part without any lift after applying the resin.
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fibernoob	fibernoob posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 34, Visits: 134	+x Hanaldo - 1/20/2018 1:43:22 AM Aha... I hadn't realised you were trying to skin the inside of that lip as well. That is always going to be a struggle. Do you actually NEED to cover the inside of the lip? It doesn't appear to be visible once the leather boot is fitted? In which case, I would simply paint it black and trim the carbon back flush with the top of the lip. If vacuum works for you and you can do it without getting creases in the top then stick with it, there's no reason not to. What I meant with bridging is that vacuum isn't very good at getting into the inside radii, so it tends to just fill it with resin instead. If you aren't getting that problem, then vacuum is a solution! Yes... Considering the contours, lip and centre hole of the part, I think the best way out is to cover the insde radii seperately.
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MaksE55	M MaksE55 posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
M Group: Forum Members Posts: 5, Visits: 25	This is actually very good for me. I have had great results with a hand layup but decided I wanted to learn how to use a vacuum for a few parts as well. I am not trying to make a straight carbon fiber part I have done a few of those with no issue. I have been testing different things but have not had any good luck. I have a shifter panel for my mercedes, I laid the carbon fiber over it and used a glue to hold it all in place. next I used West System epoxy resin to wet everything out. Then placed a Perforated Release Film over my part and then the vacuum bagging over that. taped everything down and sucked the air out. pressure held very nicely so no issue there. However when I pulled the part out today (sat overnight) it almost looks like the release film left a layer on film on the part. I have had this happen to me twice so far. Its driving me a little crazy at this point. Can I get some pointers?
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fibernoob	fibernoob posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 34, Visits: 134	+x MaksE55 - 2/26/2018 11:56:35 PM This is actually very good for me. I have had great results with a hand layup but decided I wanted to learn how to use a vacuum for a few parts as well. I am not trying to make a straight carbon fiber part I have done a few of those with no issue. I have been testing different things but have not had any good luck. I have a shifter panel for my mercedes, I laid the carbon fiber over it and used a glue to hold it all in place. next I used West System epoxy resin to wet everything out. Then placed a Perforated Release Film over my part and then the vacuum bagging over that. taped everything down and sucked the air out. pressure held very nicely so no issue there. However when I pulled the part out today (sat overnight) it almost looks like the release film left a layer on film on the part. I have had this happen to me twice so far. Its driving me a little crazy at this point. Can I get some pointers? I have tried some parts with various films and get the same issue and some creases too. With peel ply I get the texture on the surface but no excess resin. I have seen on some videos the use of a plastic film that stretches to the part. (I think Matthieu Libeert uses it on his videos for the mask skinning tutorials).. maybe this can be the solution.
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MaksE55	M MaksE55 posted 6 Years Ago HOT Post Details
M Group: Forum Members Posts: 5, Visits: 25	I watched a video of a guy wrapping a intake tube he did. I spoke with him and he used th realease film right on top of the part. When it was done the film came off and the part was perfect. Meanwhile I’m over here doing the same thing over and over and still have the same result. I can do thit hand lay and all that with sanding between layers but I wanted to find a better and faster method
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