Hi!
As I've said I have skinned quite a few parts mostly for motorbikes using the XCR resin system, sometimes combined with the "old" EC coating resin, that I've added pigmentation to and used as base coat.
I've had close to zero issues with XCR except when using very small batches of less than 10 grams of resin, or when conditions were less than ideal. Correct mixing ratio is critical, as well as hysterical degreasning and cleaning, near perfect timing on the tacky state, (which is rather short) I have not had many problems with temperature or high humidity, an area where the "old" coating resin was terribly sensitive and often formed "Amine Blush" -
I use the "standard method" for skinning : Degrease and key/clean part very thoroughly, then base coat .. I set my timer for 30 minutes and then test the surface every 7 minutes (just happens to be my standard timer setting on my Casio, for brewing a proper cup of PG tips
) until the tack feels just right -- I usually have about a dozen other projects half finished in my workshop that i can spend time on in between checks.
Once the tack is perfect, i apply my carefully precut CF fabrics (I use paper templates if the shapes are complex) I then Wait for at least 14 minutes while checking the tackiness of an exposed part of the base coat .. as soon as it is hard to the touch, but can still show a fingerprint, i add the XCR cover layers, normally 2 or 3, again using the 30 minute timer, and 7 minute test interval between each coat..
mostly I have had an almost perfect high gloss surface with enough thickness to just sand and polish the part, but sometimes I've had to add 1 or 2 more layers after sanding to 240 grit
Most of my customers have preferred a kind of "silky" surface sheen rather than the full gloss polish, which makes my work effort a bit more managable
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