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NTF6
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13,
Visits: 34
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Fasta (17/05/2017)
NTF6 (17/05/2017)
I was thinking if I apply the CF to the tacked off resin but then run a stanley knife down the CF at the exact point where the CF has stuck to the resin and where it hasn't, then sticking down the remainder until I get to my cut line and again running the knife blade down the CF on the cut line I did before as the Cf lays over on the dry CF. What do you reckon?That could work too but you would have to really get that second cut right to meet the other one spot on. Might be an idea to paint your tube black so that any gaps don't show through? Usually these sort of engine bay parts are only only seen from one side, even more simple would be just to wrap with one piece and make sure your scissor cut overlap is on the unseen back side?? If you can accept that? Thanks, the item already is a black plastic and you're right I was thinking of placing the CF joint on the inside where it would never be seen unless the pipe was off the car.
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NTF6
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Group: Forum Members
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Also I want this part to be finished in a Matte finish look not glossy, I'm guessing my best option is to clear coat when finished and if so what is the best clear coat to use on the resin, Enamel or Acrylic. And to what grit wet sanding do I need to finish to before I clear coat? 1 more question, given this pipe is in the engine bay and it sits above the exhaust manifold (which has a heat shield but still pumps out a bit of heat). Should I post cure the part and if so given I'm using West System 105 Resin and 207 Hardener would I be correct in post curing at 70º for 6 hours? Thanks for the assistance.
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WR Composites
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Group: Forum Members
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Fasta (17/05/2017)
Really? the guy is skinning and has no mould!The mould could be made in less than two hours, the amount of time skinning a part like this is considerable considering you are only changing the part aesthetically. Either way each to their own and have fun 
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Fasta
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Group: Forum Members
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Pattern prep split mould flanges release system one mould side, gel coat and laminate Pull temp flanges and release coat second mould side, gel coat and laminate Release moulds, trim, polish and release system again. |
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WR Composites
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 9,
Visits: 158
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Fasta (17/05/2017)
Pattern prep split mould flanges release system one mould side, gel coat and laminate Pull temp flanges and release coat second mould side, gel coat and laminate Release moulds, trim, polish and release system again. 2 hours BS, get real. Only speaking from experience Fasta, no need to be impolite .
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Fasta
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 468,
Visits: 3.5K
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WR Composites (17/05/2017)
Fasta (17/05/2017)
Pattern prep split mould flanges release system one mould side, gel coat and laminate Pull temp flanges and release coat second mould side, gel coat and laminate Release moulds, trim, polish and release system again. 2 hours BS, get real. Only speaking from experience Fasta, no need to be impolite . The pronunciation "BS" is polite.
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NTF6
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13,
Visits: 34
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So this was the original part with the big plastic muffler on it.
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NTF6
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Group: Forum Members
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The part with the muffler stripped away.
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NTF6
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Group: Forum Members
Posts: 13,
Visits: 34
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Well I was going to upload a pic of the part with the first lay up of CF tape but Jesus Christ what forum only allows 2 pics to be uploaded or you exceed your upload allowance?
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ChrisR
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Group: Forum Members
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I was thinking if you want to wrap it with fabric then use a 1/2" ribbon of UD/spread tow/weave as a finishing trimmer over the join, Mould wise, my first thought was make a box just larger than the part, pour in some silicone to get the shape, split and release, then put back in the box and pour in some styrene based foam to make the pattern then just layup over it and use some heat shrink over the top to compress, then dissolve the foam after, you could get the mould made in a couple of hours and it's re-usable for small runs
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