Glass Fibre repairs


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Richard Falle
Richard Falle
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Hello,

I have recently bought a second hand Westfield racing chassis with glass fibre bodywork.  Some of the panels show signs of the racing incidents that often occur during races.  The impacts have, largely, been repaired with either liquid gel coat applications into the cracked areas, a re-application of glass fibre material, or no repair. 

My question relates to how best to go about the repairs.  My gut reaction (being a complete novice in such areas - although I did work in a vehicle repair shop in my youth) is to remove the affected areas on the front and rear of the damage and re-apply glass fibre fabric and resin to build the layers back up.  I should point out that, as the car is a rather unique colour I intend to re-spray once complete into a more contemporary colour scheme.

I was thinking that the woven glass twill fabric would be a good option and would be most grateful for some advice.  As an aside, I also would like, at some point in the future, to try my hand at making panels out of carbon fibre.  Small steps first I think!



Many thanks

Richard
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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The best way to repair the damage is to scarf in the repair so it does not show up on the surface. You can add extra reinforcement underneath where it can't be seen if needs be.

Woven glass will be neater and easier to drape and get the smooth finish you need. A bit of experience and practice and you should be ready to remake the panels in carbon. We recommend you watch some of our Online Composites Learning Area.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
Richard Falle
Richard Falle
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Thanks Warren,

The videos have already been compulsive viewing - the three on a carbon fibre bonnet and the ones on the air box particularly so.  The good thing about Westfields is that the glass fibre panels are easy to deal with and, ultimately, replace.  No doubt my garage will soon become a mould store!

Thanks again

Richard
scottracing
scottracing
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Hi richard is it a paint or gelcoat on the bodywork? any pics of the damage would help too but as warren has stated your best bet is to scarf out the damage by sanding down the layers at an angle and applying new material.
Usually on the westies and other 7s it cheap GRP with a polyester resin system, is it cycle wings or the largercurved front wings fitted?
Richard Falle
Richard Falle
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Hi Scott,

Here are a couple of pics.  It looks like a gel coat of some description with previous repairs done by pouring a gel repair over the cracked areas.  The main bonnet and rear wheel arches along with some on the fixed bodywork appear to have taken the brunt of the wheel to wheel racing!

I will deal with the detachable items from both sides to allow for a more robust repair, but the fixed panels my prove a tad trickier to get behind as they are fixed to the chassis and have foam between them and the aluminium internal panelling in places.

Thanks for the reply.
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Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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Gelcoat over the top of damaged areas is bad practice in a structural sense as it adds very little strength.  You need to add replacement material to restore the strength realistically. Where you cannot get behind the panel, then scarf in the repair patches to keep the remaining panel strong, but level with the surrounding material.

If wheel to wheel action seems to be the way forward, then consider remaking the arches in Diolen or Kevlar for impact resistance.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
Richard Falle
Richard Falle
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Thanks Warren,

The ultimate goal will be to create new arches, but for now it will be repairs.  I don't intend doing anything too risky, such as wheel to wheel racing, but will do the occasional sprint and hill climb.  As I improve, the need to remove weight from the car will become more important, so the addition of carbon fibre panels will get more merit.

First up will be some sort of dash for my wife's Peugeot 205 rally car which is being rebuilt!  Probably finger glass to start.
GO

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