Guillaume from France

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Guillaume from France

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Guillaume_Fr	Guillaume_Fr posted 9 Years Ago HOT Topic Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 8, Visits: 207	Hi everyone, I'm Guillaume and I read this forum since many weeks. For my first project, I want to replace some of my old carbon parts : - the sill protectors, - the indicator pods, - the dashboard. The sill protectors was cut for the roll cage but I removed it. As it is the most simple part, I will start with it. Next it will be the dashboard, the main part. The actual dashboard is very thin with just one sheet of carbon. So there is no strength in it except on the bottom edge and the light come trough. The hole for the switches were badly cut so they are not adjusted correctly. And as the gelcoat is old, it's porous and become white with rain. The indicator pods are also porous. Do you think infusion is the most effective way to make these parts ? As I saw, laminate is more appropriate for covering but possible with a very long long way to get a good finish. And my oven is not big enough to cure a dashboard from prepreg fabric. Attachments DB - actual.jpg (375 views, 104.00 KB) DB - actual 2.jpg (368 views, 54.00 KB) DB - the corner.jpg (346 views, 92.00 KB) DB - the corner 2.jpg (374 views, 86.00 KB) Side protector cut.jpg (317 views, 71.00 KB)
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davro	davro posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 300, Visits: 2.2K	Hi Guillaume, Welcome to the forums I made my dashboard using resin infusion and a heated blanket. Making the mould I just filled in the old dashboard holes reinforced the back of the dashboard to keep it straight with plastic and covered holes with filleting wax. Then finished the carbon fibre dashboard with 2K clear coat. David Stevens YouTube: Comment \| Rate \| Subscribe Instagram Composite Projects Body Package for Dax Rush RC Car Touring Body 1/10 Scale
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Guillaume_Fr	Guillaume_Fr posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 8, Visits: 207	Hi Davro, I read many of your posts. I have to read it again and again. Right now, I read again the discussion about the GC50 : http://www.talkcomposites.com/5955/Brush-applied-GC50-gel-coat?PageIndex=1 But, first, I'll start with the side protectors because they are smaller and easier to reproduce. It will be a good test and a good practice. I will post some pictures of each step and ask for tips. About the mould, I think about 3 ways to do it. 1. using a polypropylene sheet shape to the correct form with a heat gun. But the larger sheet is 1m and that's too short. 2. using Uni-Mould as you do 3. using Epoxy Mould Making Putty : https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/emp60-epoxy-moulding-paste But before that, I need to prepare the parts.
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scottracing	scottracing posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 460, Visits: 5.2K	Hi Guillaume welcome to the forum! What CAT do you own? Is it a K powered series 3? I have a R400 chassis in the garage and I was meant to be making lots of parts for it but not got anything made this year! On larger parts if you have no way to cure them with prepreg then infusion is the best option, Im hoping to make some indicator units and rear light clusters then onto actual aero bodywork. GOod luck with the project, I would suggest attaching creating a flat tool with a rounded edge and laying onto that, possibly upper and lower to make the dash then trim to shape! Garry
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Guillaume_Fr	Guillaume_Fr posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 8, Visits: 207	Hi Garry, My Cat is a 1600k S3 built in 2000. Yes, I definitively think infusion is the best way to do it. But for the mould for the small parts (i.e. the side protectors and the indicator pods) perhaps it's better to do it with Epoxy Mould Making Putty. For the dashboard, mine is in a very bad condition. So I think to create a pattern from foam blocks. But before the side protectors. One piece was cut and there are many drill holes. On the top, there are also many tiny hole How should I progress ? I tried with a little of Mouldphorm and sanded it. But I'm reaching the carbon fabric and I don't finish to sand it. Edited 9 Years Ago by Guillaume_Fr
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Guillaume_Fr	Guillaume_Fr posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 8, Visits: 207	Hi, I watch again some David's videos. I need to use a lot of new plast as I saw. And to perfect the surface, it has to be finish with filling wax. To reproduce the top edge, I took a print to get a tool to cut in the new plast. The tool is made with 50g of mouldphorm. Perhaps more could be better. It's just a first attempt; I didn't fill all the back, the bottom and the opposite side. I also need to make this side longer, I think. And I need somme tools to form the new plast in a better way. Next step, I'll try the filling wax.
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Guillaume_Fr	Guillaume_Fr posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 8, Visits: 207	With the wax I think I found a good way to address this cut. But it's going to be just a practice because I have to manage the gap between these parts and the car body. These parts may have been done on top of the original part; they could be the mould. I think about 2 options. 1. Make the mould from these two parts and make the piece thick. 2. Start by making a new pattern. Do you see others options?
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Guillaume_Fr	Guillaume_Fr posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 8, Visits: 207	Hi, Some news. I bought an original part from Caterham and I'm true. The carbon part is bigger than the original. I have to stop my projects here but it is just to restart it later.
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scottracing	scottracing posted 9 Years Ago HOT Post Details
Group: Forum Members Posts: 460, Visits: 5.2K	They will have used the original ali part as the mould when making them
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