Hanaldo
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Haha I think anyone that has done infusion will understand if not share that sentiment.
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davro
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Rich (Staff)
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Welcome to the forum, looking forward to seeing your projects
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Hanaldo
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Yes, the painters I've used are also extremely good, they do the 20k paint jobs on our show cars with no problems. Thing is, painters are quite set in their ways and tend to treat everything the same. They don't realise that composite panels have been exposed to quite powerful release agents, and can in some cases be somewhat difficult to bond to. For example the one part I had painted, I knew I was going to paint it so I only finished the mould to 600 grit. The painter then thought that because it looked like it had a good surface for paint she didn't need to prep it (even though she charged me for the prep work). Anyway, I'm sure in most cases it would be absolutely fine, it's just something to be aware of and in my opinion worth stressing to them.
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Jackjack.iot
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Hanaldo (15/08/2016)
It's no problem painting composite parts provided the spray painters do their job properly. I taught myself to spray paint because I got sick of 'professionals' cutting corners. The only time I've ever had issues is when I've had a pro do the job. But provided you stress to them that they NEED to clean the parts and sand them meticulously, then there's no issues at all. The company I use has a reputation for being meticulous, I've used them in the past to touch up an R32 GTR I own and my old Civic EK9 (Type-R) so I know they're good. I will have to build my panels first before I can think about getting the paint work done anyway! Cheers Hanaldo!
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Hanaldo
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Group: Forum Members
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It's no problem painting composite parts provided the spray painters do their job properly. I taught myself to spray paint because I got sick of 'professionals' cutting corners. The only time I've ever had issues is when I've had a pro do the job. But provided you stress to them that they NEED to clean the parts and sand them meticulously, then there's no issues at all.
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Jackjack.iot
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I feel utterly stupid asking this as I'm 99% the answer should be straight forward, if I make up panels (I thinking of Infusion/Wet here) and send my car for paint work with said panels fitted will I have any issues with them at all? I'm sure there shouldn't be any issues but We can never be too careful right? I don't want to ruin my lovely composite pieces after meticulously hand laying and making said items.
I'm intending on doing things like lip kit, Bonnet and Wings in CF / CFxKevlar and getting the wings and bonnet painted in factory knighthawk black pearl when I send the car to be redone and a lip kit just lacquered clear to show off a little bit of composite bling.
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Hanaldo
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I've never come across an actual OOA pre-preg with less than 38% resin content. The good ones I've seen are 40%, and the one 38% one I've tried is garbage. Perhaps I should rephrase my statement and say that for your average hobbiest application, there's not going to be any difference between an infused panel and a pre-preg panel. Of course an advantage of pre-preg is it's Tg, but again, any good infusion resin can handle the temperatures required of a vehicle body panel. It's horses for courses obviously, don't get me wrong I love pre-preg for small parts and complex parts. For larger panels though, infusion wins all day long for me. It's a bloody annoying process and I've learned to hate it, but it works and it works well.
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f1rob
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You have a prepreg the resin content is set at the point on manufacture (even on "hot roll" OOA material so normally 34%
infusion is dependant on the person ,how they bag the job and you will be lucky to hit 40% all the time
yet to see a data sheet for a infusion resin that is anywhere near the figures for a prepreg resin system
Most prepregs can easily handles a 180 deg post cure after strip out for even more strengh
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Hanaldo
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Haha man the terms 'wet' and 'dry' annoy me! Every composite has resin in it, they are all wet! Seriously though, there's absolutely no difference between an out-of-autoclave pre-preg (dry) part compared to an infused 'wet' part, provided they are well made. Both should have a fibre:resin ratio of around 60:40, which is quite ideal.
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