Hi guys,

Depending on the use of the part, there are several options:

If you need top strength + low resin to fibre ratio, and not Prepreg, you really need to do infusion with Epoxy infusion resin, which is not very UV resistant, so the part will need either 2-component automotive clearcoat, or XCR coating resin on top, which you can brush on and polish to very nice results.

Or you can use EC's GC50 polyester gelcoat either sprayed or rolled into your mould as shown in the "EC Bonnet video"

If your parts are mainly cosmetic, and you can live with the slightly greyish tint, then use polyester infusion resin maybe combined with polyester gelcoat.

Be aware that the polyester infusion resin does "infect" the oil in your vacuum pump with styrene .. which causes a bit of a lingering stink in your workshop, and you will need to replace the vacuum oil regularly if you do "production runs"

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)

Nice information Dravis on the polyester infusion resin "infecting" vacuum pump oil never thought about that.

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David Stevens
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@davro ..

I do not know if it breaks down anything in the vacuum pump... oil or vanes etc.. but the smell stays in the pump for ages .. Styrene is a solvent so I would think that it affects the oil somehow.

I've set up an extra catchpot (homemade) with a cup of oil in it that the pump draws through, and that helps a lot.

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)

I second that! What a fantastic write up buddy. Thank you.

So the equipment I am buying is every thing that is in the bonnet video which includes the GC50 gel coat - s I should be safe.

My dad owns a body shop so automotive clear could be another option for me, but how do you prep the surface for clear coat? Surely you cant take a scotch pad to a fresh de-moulded surface?

I cant wait to get this underway! I am off to America so going to kick this off as soon as I am back

Thanks buddy!


Shane
-Carbon Amateur-
*Never give up!*

Dravis is right with the basics, either you need a resin system with UV stability or apply a coating, be it resin or lacquer after moulding that offers the UV protection you need.

GC50 is best being sprayed onto the mould surface, especially for resin infusion, so if that is not an option for you, then the lacquer is a better option. The reason is the brush strokes in brush applied GC50 causes distortion on the resin infused carbon.

Wet lay you can choose either option as GC50 is fine when brush applied. The carbon will float on top of a thin layer of resin so does not get distorted.

Once the part has fully cured, you will need to key the part and clean/de-grease in preparation for lacquering if you choose that option.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant