Giving back to the TC community


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Davidpetty1988
Davidpetty1988
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Hi everyone,
Just wanted to start by saying how much I love this forum. The idea of people with mad skills and knowledge in the field of composites dishing out information absolutely free with the genuine inttention of helping people is very commendable, considering how many times I've been told nothing in this life is free.
Thanks to the people who answered my questions even though they probably herd them a million times before(standard newbie questions) yet you people still take the time to answer.
Anyways....what I'm trying to say is I'm asking and recieveing all this help and due to my limited knowlege and experience in composites I can't give anything back(not for a while anyway) so I thought I'd give people my experience of building my small deticated composites workshop.

I started out by building my base out of decking 11ft by 9ft

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/276baabb-e409-462a-a3ce-688a.jpg
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/2a692e98-0f7c-440e-9c9d-c0d3.jpg
Then I bought my flat pack metal shed I would suggest buying a lot of silicone sealant and expanding foam to fill all joins and gaps otherwise you will get water inside but don't permantly block the air vents or you will get a problem with condensation and humidity.
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/f30b2c26-753c-4396-9e2a-9132.jpg
Luckily we had just replaced the flooring in the house so I used that to put down two layers of tounge and groove wood flooring for added insulation
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/c1d35a80-dcf9-4219-b4b6-299d.jpg
Then I built a stud frame all around the inside using 2×2 CLS untreated(cheapest best option)
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/7b4bcdf2-125e-43ec-bbe4-ecc7.jpg
Lined it with rock wool insulation (cheapest best option) will absorb excess moisture
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/726daa0d-563e-4d15-afc8-079c.jpg
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Edited 8 Years Ago by Davidpetty1988
Davidpetty1988
Davidpetty1988
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http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/6c172c9d-488d-451f-a77c-b138.jpg
Then I used 11mm OSB board to line it out I also used 25mm polystyrene sheets and stuck to the ceiling for more insulation
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/799529f4-7114-48dd-9e4e-c004.jpg
Then got a qualified electrician to put up the light sockets an hook up to the mains

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/0857e32b-486f-42ba-9b76-ba18.jpg
Then I built my benches and shelves
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/c8de663e-64f4-4032-be36-7cd1.jpg
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/1a715de0-47b6-4579-9a9b-9e70.jpg
Then I split the room directly down the middle one side for dusty stuff (cutting shaping plug making)and one side dust free (for layups vacuum bagging and infusisions).couldn't get a good pic so didn't bother
http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/6d8652c1-b39d-4c9c-9247-7bb7.jpg
Useful tool people should check out. Stanley 360° multi angle soft grip vice a valuable tool for dremel work its on YouTube in Russian but you still get the idea of how it works plus it only cost me £21 brand new off eBay.

I also have a oven that I'm building that I'm going to post next hope this was helpful to at least one person any questions or advice on costs or how to's just ask

Dave
Keep on carboning
Edited 8 Years Ago by Davidpetty1988
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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Nice workshop.

Are you planning on having some form of heating? Most resins are fairly temperature sensitive so it may be something you need to consider to ensure your parts have a good curing temperature throughout the cure time.

Also for vacuum bagging, ensure the bagging area is fully clear of anything that could puncture the bag, be it wood splinters, glass fibre splinters etc.  The cleaner you can keep the bagging area and film, then the less chance of those annoying small bag leaks you can never find!

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
Davidpetty1988
Davidpetty1988
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Oh yeah ambient temperature is a big factor hence the insulation overkill. Even at -1°c outside my workshop never drops below 10°c. I have a little fan heater which heats up the workshop really quickly to about 20-25°c really quickly t-shirt temp even when freezing outside and once up to heat I switch it off and it holds the temp of at least two or three hours!! For long cure resin infusions I have a 100watt electric blanket on the bench which I place my mould onto cover with a blanket that holds about 25°c constant for those long cures which is low cost on the electric and such a low temp not at all a fire risk
Thank you for your words of wisdom warren
Dave
davro
davro
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Nice, these are the type of threads I enjoy, lots more images of the workshop progress please!

The workshop is looking good the one thing I say is build a heated glass table somewhere I know I keep mentioning it, but that's because it's cheap and works so well for me with a single £20 Argos heater, it heats the table up and the builtin fan heater sensor turns off the heating element but keep circulating the warm air when it's up to temperate so it hardly uses any power, the fan heater just switches back on once the internal temperature drops so it regulates it's self very nicely.

I have never found the need for an oven, I just turn the table on and cover over the mould I am working on with an electric blanket and some old blankets I have cooked some quite large mould/products on this table, can easily get the glass surface up to 80c without a heated blanket Smile 

And it keeps my chilly garage nice and warm as a by product.

This is an old Ikea glass desktop table, I have seen a few on freecycle and local places for cheap, keep your eye out for some toughened glass


I use one side for mould making and the other side for making nice flat composite sheets. Also use it to store all my aluminium inventory inside for milling projects, so it holds the heat even more now!



David Stevens
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Edited 8 Years Ago by davro
Rich (Staff)
Rich (Staff)
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That looks great Dave; I set my workshop up a couple of years ago and unfortunately its already been filled with all manner of other useless tat so I need to get on and either clear it or build another so I can finally get back to it; seeing yours coming together certainly makes it more apepaling to get back on with it!!
Davidpetty1988
Davidpetty1988
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Davro I've seen your heated glass worktop on many occasions(not peeping through your window, but on you YouTube speed shop vids) it is a really good idea very impressive ingenuity I think I might have to pinch that idea at some point.How do the temperatures fair on taller or bigger projects is there much difference???Are the temps high enough for OOA prepreg?

There will definitely be updates to this thread because I'm still finding the right place to put things so there in the right place where and when I need them all that time saved hunting for stuff adds up.
I might even make a YouTube vid!!

Richie there's nothing worse than having a workshop with loads of cluter and junk (I feel your pain) and having to sort out stuff to get back on the horse. Much better to start a fresh completly take everything out and start with a blank canvas, have a think and design and look for some clever storage ideas! at least it stays tidy for a little while haha.

Maybe we could have this as a dedicated workshop topic? People should send picks of there workspaces just be nice for sharing ideas
Thanks 
Dave
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Edited 8 Years Ago by Davidpetty1988
davro
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Never played with OOA prepreg, only ever done resin infusion not really sure about the temperatures required with OOA prepreg
But I think you would also need a way to ramp the temperature ?

I just keep it low temp and simple, as the workshop is reaching critical mass ...




David Stevens
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RC Car Touring Body 1/10 Scale


Edited 8 Years Ago by davro
Davidpetty1988
Davidpetty1988
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Yeah I got my mate who does house clearance is sourcing me a glass table top of some sort and will be building one like yours for my resin infusions. Also I have an old steel gas cooker which I'm going to sort out going to build a box out of fire board to put inside and rock wool insulation as I'm going to dable with some prepreg. I bought 1800wtt element for £25 and I got a pid temp controller with a thermocouple and a SSR for £11.97!! doesn't do ramp or soak but as I understand the ramp times go up in intervals of between 10-20 degrees every couple of hours so will just control temp manually just to see what its like and if its any good I'll pay 40 or 50 quid for a ramp and soak pid controller.
Today's bonus a hoover for £3 for localised dust extraction! Happy days:-)
Dave
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