|
redeye
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52,
Visits: 559
|
Hi guys, I am looking for some advice regarding plug making for a cover I will do for my clutch casing. I have worked out/estimated that 3mm will be pretty darn strong, so have gone and purchased myself some 3mm sheet wax and some modelling clay. The item I want to make a cover for looks exactly like this, not my picture,but this is it:  Do you think there is any chance I could get the wax to conform nicely over this or would I need to cut in strips? I figured I'd try and get it to conform but may struggle, maybe you guys will set me straight in the correct direction if it isn't even worth trying and wasting the wax (not at all cheap here). Regarding using strips, should I cute them and lay them down adjacent to one another and then fill in the gaps with clay/putty and then finally cover in cling film perhaps before taking the mould off this? Obviously i will fillet the point where the cover meets the flange of the plug. Regarding filleting wax, I havent been able to find any where I am, will I be able to make the modelling clay work here or should I look for plasticine? MMM, wonder if my daughter play dough will react with the gelcoat 
Thanks in advance for any and all comments and help.
|
|
|
|
|
VVS
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Posts: 226,
Visits: 334
|
Ive have limited experience with the wax but from the bit ive done i'd say you have zero to nil chance of doing it in one. You have no trouble bending it in one direction but it only allows limited bending in multi directions, it pops up into a nasty deformed lump, you could cut these out but its better to not have them. Big shame you cannot get some filleting wax as its great to use and very easy to work into the sheet wax, ive not used clay but plasticine is a close second. People may have a better way of working it but i would cut a disc of sheet wax slightly less than the outer radius so say 10mm before the outer curve starts then put a thin piece around the outside from the clutch arm piece back around to its self, again short of the curve, then cut some plastic or anything to make a tool, the radius you want the finished curve and after filling with well softened plasticine use the tool to cut/shape the radius between the two pieces of sheet wax. Hope you get what im saying.
|
|
|
|
|
redeye
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52,
Visits: 559
|
Hey, thanks for the reply. I figured that would be the hassle. I was sorta hoping for a "zero to nil" answer as then it would point me in using cut sections immediately rather than have me faff around and then get to that answer having wasted time and sheet wax. Regarding filleting wax - I could mission and get some couriered here, maybe worth doing. How difficult is doing this with plasticine though? And would you say a flour based product would work (have tons at home), although I could just go and get some petroleum based stuff at a hobby store I suppose. I thought it would perhaps be wise to cut strips and just go over the casing rather than around the periphery and then fill in the gaps in between, I realise that there are places where there'd be compound curves, but they would be smaller than trying the whole lot in one go. The concern I have is keeping it at 3mm thick over the radius are if I don't have any sheet wax there. Thanks again. I'll post pics here of any progress I might, or might not, make. Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
Blackrat
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 20,
Visits: 85
|
why not just a regular epoxy mold ?
|
|
|
|
|
redeye
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52,
Visits: 559
|
I am making a cover, the sheet wax we are speaking about is to simulate the thickness of the cover (which fits over the casing) - i.e. the plug will be made from the original plus some sheetwax and plasticine/filleting wax etc. A regular epoxy and fibreglass mould will then be taken off the plug.
|
|
|
|
|
VVS
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Posts: 226,
Visits: 334
|
Remember to allow a little for some kind of glue, that said the sheet wax gives a matt surface to the gel that you will need to sand/polish so this will give you some extra and this will allow you to make sure the radius is ok.
|
|
|
|
|
ChrisR
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 363,
Visits: 3K
|
Why not just make a 2 part matched mould from the original part? Then you will get an exact replica with all the mounting points? Or are you intending on making the internal mould first then building a sheet wax former to create the external mould?
|
|
|
|
|
redeye
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 52,
Visits: 559
|
Hey guys, Thanks for the comments and discussion. VVS: Regarding glue - I have thunk about this and expect it to fall within the 3mm thickness. ChrisR: I am making a cover for the casing. I.e. The part in the picture (the casing) will have a CF cover over it rather than being replaced by the carbon fiber itself.
|
|
|
|
|
ChrisR
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Posts: 363,
Visits: 3K
|
Why not just skin it then? All this expense and complexity seems overkill for such a simple part, grind off what you don't want to come through and skin it - simple?? If it's a cover, over the cover and you want to make it separate then just use 2-4 layers of 200gsm (0.6-1mm thk) the curvature of the part will give it stiffness, 3mm thk part! overkill, that's about 15 layers of 200gsm The above may sound a little blunt but I am really confused why you would want to got to all the trouble, expense & time to just make a cover, for what you are putting into it you may as well just remake the part completely
|
|
|
|
|
VVS
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Posts: 226,
Visits: 334
|
The casing is magnesium and expensive, they take a battering so the idea is to protect the original case with a cf cover that can then be removed if the bike is sold leaving a clean original case.
|
|
|
|