Well here is the end result


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twissta
twissta
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I thought I post the end result of a part I made for a friend for his 848 Ducati, Now this was a wet lay project that I started with to get familiar with the process and basics. I am preparing the resin infusion method to make the same part. Enjoy let me know what you think any and ll feedback is appreciated.

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/584be42c-6a4f-40a7-a2a9-66ce.jpg

http://www.talkcomposites.com/Uploads/Images/9a2d72e5-c133-4cc1-aef1-92f9.jpg
TomDesign
TomDesign
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Looking really good.Good job. if picture was bigger can jugde more Wink
redeye
redeye
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They look great. What material is that?

I would love a carbon/kevlar weave with orange kevlar but can't find any. Would even consider shipping a roll over here if I got enough orders for my stuff.

Have you got pictchas of the mould and layup process at all?
Dravis
Dravis
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The CF looks like the EC "Red Diolene/CF fabric"  Smile
I have used the standard yellow/black Kevlar twill, and infused with red tinted  resin, that gives a colour close to the "KTM Orange" --

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

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redeye
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Dravis (21/05/2015)
The CF looks like the EC "Red Diolene/CF fabric"  Smile
I have used the standard yellow/black Kevlar twill, and infused with red tinted  resin, that gives a colour close to the "KTM Orange" --


Awesome - I wanted to try the tinted resin idea but wasn't sure it would work. Diolen also looks like it has good properties (maybe slightly lower) than that of CF/Kevlar reinforcing but it would do well for what I'm looking at. Did you add your own tinting or did you buy tinted resin? Off to the EC website I go again....
Dravis
Dravis
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I bought the EC kit of "Translucent Tints"  They work very well, but when infusing you must be very careful to get the tint fully dissolved in the resin, preferably before adding the hardener.

When infusing a lot of the coarser tint particles will not pass through the first parts of the flow, and not get to the top of the layers, up against the mould. This is a good thing, since it makes sure that the translucent tint is not "spotted" but you must mix it slightly darker than the end result you want.

I some cases I've had to clear coat, using translucent coloured 2-comp Clearcoat, in order to get the desired "deep tint" My local Auto paint shop has a range of translucent laquers..

I'll try to find som pictures ..

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
redeye
redeye
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Thank you for the information. Some pondering to be done on that point when I get there.

Some pictures would be great! 

Do you always coat in clear lacquer after removing from the mould? I was under the impression if I succeed with infusion I will not necessarily need to clear coat? I assume with wet lay and vac bagging I would still have to clear coat, or would I have success with some kind of clear gelcoat?

Apologies for the thread hijack.
Edited 9 Years Ago by redeye
Dravis
Dravis
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I almost always clear coat "cosmetic parts", all according to how my "customers" want it to look....   Some just want the parts to be as light as possible, in that case I just do infusion, with no other surface treatment than a coat of car wax.  The clear coat adds some weight to the parts.

Pure "infused" parts will not be very resistant to UV from sunlight, so they will yellow and brittle over time.   I've seen real horrors after a few years on even very expensive factory CF parts on some bikes... Crazy

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

The written word is the only truly efficient vehicle for transmitting a complex concept from mind to mind...

103% of all people do not understand statistics...

Do not adjust our mind, theres a fault in reality :-)
GO

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