removing pin holes


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sam
sam
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If it's some help try a major  company named PPG paints they have branches in Australia and other parts of the world. I have used their product before, that may fit the bill, speak with there technical section and they have  a head office in UK somewhere. as well as Australia.  All the best
sam
sam
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If it's some help try a major  company named PPG paints they have branches in Australia and other parts of the world. I have used their product before -  that may fit the bill, speak with there technical section and they have  a head office in UK somewhere.  All the best
morepower
morepower
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20_rc51_00 (16/10/2015)
Here are a few recommendations from various sources as to lay up schedule etc.. all which I pulled from the net with a bit of digging.

The cytec doc talks about edge bleeding and top bleeding for debulk and for sure if I recall correctly. Might want to try each/both. One or the other  may drain too much resin or not enough. If the SHD TDS had this info it would be what you're after etc. Nothing says that you can't actually come up with a better way too. Also I would suggest stretch out the dwell time so that the resin is at it's thinnest for quite a while. This can allow air to be pulled off, but may be what leads to too much resin pulled off too with one method or the other. 







Also, report back with your results ! BigGrin




The problem with using other recommendations from other suppliers is you are up against different chemistry. Some will work or help others will make it worse.. I spent 6 months with one material getting different results from small changes and it has been a mixture of breather stack and ramp and dwell that I spent all my time on. Oddly some moulds need peel ply on the flange to bleed air and some don't. After a while you get to know which ones do and which ones don't. But the cure schedule never changes. You just need to make sure the oven is accurate with even temp top, bottom and middle or find a way to make sure you have the parts where the oven is working best. You may have to fine tune the controller and compensate for any differences. Mine is 2 degrees different from the thermocouple location to the centre of the oven.  Dwell times are important but I have found controlling ramp is actually more important than you think. Moulds may have different thickness so getting the moulds to all heat up within a margin that keeps them quite close will make all your parts cure consistently.

Its a bit of work to get your oven to be consistent but it is worth it... The SHD cure schedule is based on my findings and although I have not given them my breather stack info it is not to hide anything it is simply due to different moulds work differently so the only thing that will not change is the cure cycle. 
Edited 10 Years Ago by morepower
20_rc51_00
20_rc51_00
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Here are a few recommendations from various sources as to lay up schedule etc.. all which I pulled from the net with a bit of digging.

The cytec doc talks about edge bleeding and top bleeding for debulk and for sure if I recall correctly. Might want to try each/both. One or the other  may drain too much resin or not enough. If the SHD TDS had this info it would be what you're after etc. Nothing says that you can't actually come up with a better way too. Also I would suggest stretch out the dwell time so that the resin is at it's thinnest for quite a while. This can allow air to be pulled off, but may be what leads to too much resin pulled off too with one method or the other. 







Also, report back with your results ! BigGrin
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Edited 10 Years Ago by 20_rc51_00
morepower
morepower
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MarkMK (15/10/2015)
I know from reading earlier posts that you've spent a lot of time getting the cure schedule right to get such excellent results. The question is, are you willing to share your knowledge, or does the datasheet associated with the SHD product provide all that's required? 


The pdf will give you enough info to get started. I would suggest you log the cure schedule you run and fine tune it from there. Using a ramp and dwell controller would be really helpful too. 

They will do smaller quantities. Not sure if they have a minimum as I now order at least 20 meters usually 25 meters as some of my work is not material heavy but is time consuming so I get enough to make sure I do not have issues with outlife. 
scottracing
scottracing
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now that is some quality looking parts, and exactly what you should be able to achieve with prepregs, I still havent got round to using my labovens in anger due to the new baby but I will certainly give SHD a call when I need some material. 
Do they have a minimum order qty? 
MarkMK
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I know from reading earlier posts that you've spent a lot of time getting the cure schedule right to get such excellent results. The question is, are you willing to share your knowledge, or does the datasheet associated with the SHD product provide all that's required? 
morepower
morepower
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I know this is a quick fix but you need to find a cure schedule that you can get to work consistently. I now have almost zero pinholes in my work if I have to make the part very thin the rest of my work is pinhole free. If you are using easypreg it should be flawless if you get it right and can repeat it exactly. (This is why I use a ramp and dwell controller). The material I use is now being sold by SHD Composites and it is called DF212. Its brilliant material if you get the cure schedule right. 



This seat back is straight out of the mould with nothing else done to it....

f1rob
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"black magic" sold by Ami-con among others
f1rob
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