We do this a lot to sprint kayaks and rowing shells. The easiest way is to sand back to 400 grit and either spay or roller on polyurethane paint, one or two pack. It is easier to spray but roller and sanding can give a good finish as well. 

Its not the gel time on the boat you will struggle with, but the pot life. With a faster curing resin you'd be constantly having to mix new pots of resin. Hence a slightly longer curing resin is the better solution.

Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant

Hi Justin,

I've done a few boats like this.  Mostly slalom boats but the damage is often similar.  I've always used a few coats of EL2 to smooth over the bottom.  Be gentle when you put it on to avoid getting brush marks and several thin coats will help stop it sagging or running.  Flat & polish refers to sanding it down flat and then polishing the sanded surface back bright.  I'd start with a 360grit to take back the brush pattern then 500 and finally 1200.  This will give a smooth but dull finish.  Polish that with some Farecla G6 then G3 and it will look awesome.  Epoxy isn't UV stable so you can lacquer it but most boats are just left in plain epoxy.  Best of luck with it.

HI

I'm repairing a carbon Kevlar polo kayak for a friend. The boat's previous owner sanded down the entire hull and so I need to re-epoxy it.  I want to know if the 'fast setting' epoxy used in the video will do, or am I likely to be pushed for time to get the entire hull done and therefore should get a slower setting resin. (I've got a nice dry undercover work area where I can store a boat out of the way easily if it takes ages to go off.) Also could you briefly explain what "flatting and polishing" is and how one goes about it to get the hull looking nice and glossy.




thanks Justin