Been there and done that. It is so hard to remove that I was actually injuring my self with over strain buy pull.
So I have a good solution that I have come up with.

First you need a 1 inch thin putty knife, sharpen it like a knife.
I use it to work my way under the peel ply to get a tab to start pulling on.
Buy yourself the biggest needle nose plyers you can get. (Mine is over a foot long and I am still looking for a 2 footer)

So this is how you use it. Lay the plyers flat on your mold and pinch the tab you have raised and simple twist exactly like you were opening a can of tuna or spam. It just rolls up like magic. Grab another tab and go again. You will be amazed and ask yourself, why didn't I think of this sooner.
Also wear some work gloves it makes it easy on the hands.

Hope this helps....no....  I know this helps!

Fred

No not at all. I always use perforated release film and peel ply in my infusions, because it both makes removing the consumables easier as well as assisting with degassing on the resin front. I get less pinholes in parts where I use both compared to solely peel ply. 

I've read a lot about that perforated film above the peelply. 

Available here.

I recently started using a product called infuply 2. It's a flow medium glued on to perforated release film so it's one product instead of two. It leaves a softer finish than peel ply

You can use perforated release film between the peel ply and mesh, the peel ply can still be difficult to remove but the mesh can be removed easily.

Yeh peel ply is a prick to remove on parts after its wet out. Best thing to do is to put release film over the top of the peel ply, makes everything a lot easier. Otherwise just cut strips and tear it off in bits. 

Damn...this was way too hard. Is there a trick to make it easier?

What am I doing wrong? Quick vacuum bagging test to see where bridging would occur...