Does this sound like a good process?


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quinn
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Hanaldo - 8/11/2018 2:27:20 AM
Likely to be somebody else using an analogue vacuum gauge to judge the pumps performance. Analogue vacuum gauges are too relative to be accurate, they dont know what your atmospheric conditions are, they dont know what your elevation above sea level is. They're an indicator but that's it. You need an absolute pressure gauge to have an accurate representation of vacuum level.

What sort of pump did you buy, can you show us? If it is a rotary vane pump, it should be able to achieve 99.99% vacuum, even if it is a cheap one.

As for why infusion needs full vacuum; the mechanical force behind the process is the atmospheric pressure driving the resin through your laminate. 1 bar isn't a lot of pressure to begin with, and this actually drops as the resin enters the laminate and the pressure differential balances back out. So when the infusion is completed, you don't actually have 14.7psi of pressure on the bag anymore. If you're starting lower, then not only does your resin have less force driving it into your laminate (which increases the likelihood of poor wet-out) but you also have a lower consolidation pressure as a result, which in turn means that you have more space between fibres which must fill with resin so you end up with a resin rich and heavier laminate. 

There's also air inclusion. The two main benefits of resin infusion from a performance perspective are lower resin content from higher consolidation pressure, and very low void content due to the fact that all air has been evacuated from the laminate before any resin is introduced. If you dont have full vacuum, then you have air inside the laminate which will present itself as voids. Not only will this give you a weaker part, but there's a good chance it will present itself as pinholes on the surface of the part. 

The difference between 14.7psi and 12.7psi may not sound like much, but every micron counts. Ask anyone that has made a mistake and let just a tiny bit of air into the bag during infusion - it shows up. Even a 0.1% drop in vacuum pressure will cause defects, let alone 15%. This may not mean you end up with a completely unusable part, it depends what you consider acceptable. You will have voids, you will have a heavier part. You basically lose all the performance benefits of having done resin infusion over a wet-layup.



Thanks for the explanation, makes more sense now. Not just about how much pressure is being put on the laminate, but also the amount of air left inside. At 80% or so vacuum there's like 200 times the amount of air left in there compared to 99.9% vacuum. 
Yes, it's a rotary vane, single stage 4.5cfm. Here's the link. 4.5CFM Single-Stage Rotary Vane... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY0C5EZ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf 

what worries me is that I've watched about 15 different videos on infusion and every single one of them is using an analog gauge that pegs all the way out to 30 when they pull the vacuum. Is it pretty unlikely that my pump would fail in a way that only pulls partial vacuum? Just not feeling super confident after seeing so many videos of the gauge pegged at 30 and mine only hits 26. Maybe I should go get another gauge?

Edited 7 Years Ago by quinn
Hanaldo
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Dont worry about the gauge, they are all going to be inaccurate in one way or another. Some may be better calibrated than others, but at the end of the day the number they point to really doesn't matter. Keep in mind that elevation above sea level and atmospheric conditions will change the reading the gauge gives you as well. So one day it might read 26", the next day it could be 30mm past the 30" mark - and I promise you wont be pulling 32" of vacuum! 

Stick with what you've got. Your pump should be perfectly capable of pulling full vacuum, so if it goes quiet and stops emitting oil vapour when the gauge says you are at full vacuum then you are likely at full vacuum. If you're really worried about it, do some playing around and infuse some flat sheet. You'll learn a lot, and you'll also be able to look at the flat sheet and diagnose any problems - pump related problems are going to be obvious.

Lester Populaire
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Hanaldo - 8/12/2018 2:40:40 AM
Dont worry about the gauge, they are all going to be inaccurate in one way or another. Some may be better calibrated than others, but at the end of the day the number they point to really doesn't matter. Keep in mind that elevation above sea level and atmospheric conditions will change the reading the gauge gives you as well. So one day it might read 26", the next day it could be 30mm past the 30" mark - and I promise you wont be pulling 32" of vacuum! 

Stick with what you've got. Your pump should be perfectly capable of pulling full vacuum, so if it goes quiet and stops emitting oil vapour when the gauge says you are at full vacuum then you are likely at full vacuum. If you're really worried about it, do some playing around and infuse some flat sheet. You'll learn a lot, and you'll also be able to look at the flat sheet and diagnose any problems - pump related problems are going to be obvious.

I would highly recommend infusing some flat sheets of glass fiber and carbon fiber and whatever to figure out all small details of the process!

quinn
q
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Good idea, I'll start with some flat sheets. I also need to find out if my 600cps resin is gonna do the the job, most likely need to warm it up a bit. 
After about 5 different versions and many adjustments to my canopy design, I finally have something I'm happy with so I'm in the process of milling the plug this weekend. I started by slicing up the model and milling profiles with locating dowel holes to avoid turning a half sheet of mdf into dust by just milling a solid block. Now i have a 2 hour long 3d mill to do. Duratec surface primer shows up tomorrow to finish off the plug  


quinn
q
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Hanaldo - 8/12/2018 2:40:40 AM
Dont worry about the gauge, they are all going to be inaccurate in one way or another. Some may be better calibrated than others, but at the end of the day the number they point to really doesn't matter. Keep in mind that elevation above sea level and atmospheric conditions will change the reading the gauge gives you as well. So one day it might read 26", the next day it could be 30mm past the 30" mark - and I promise you wont be pulling 32" of vacuum! 

Stick with what you've got. Your pump should be perfectly capable of pulling full vacuum, so if it goes quiet and stops emitting oil vapour when the gauge says you are at full vacuum then you are likely at full vacuum. If you're really worried about it, do some playing around and infuse some flat sheet. You'll learn a lot, and you'll also be able to look at the flat sheet and diagnose any problems - pump related problems are going to be obvious.

you were right about the gauge. figured out an easy way to test the pump. room temperature water boils at 29.1 inches.  put a few drops of water in the end of a tube hooked to the pump, capped it off and turned it on. boiled immediately. so now i know at least its hitting over 29, probably pretty close to full vac. 

quinn
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Plug is milled, sealed, and primed. Very slight orange peel in the duratec but knocks down flat very quickly with 300 grit. No pin holes or voids. Not bad for a 13 dollar spray gun and my first time shooting anything but laquer. Should be pulling molds friday. 
So when I apply the tooling gel coat to the plug for first layer of mold, can I expect it to spray similar to the duratec primer? Or is it gonna be thicker and more difficult? My gun has a 2.5mm tip, but like I said it's a cheap gun. I suppose it's probably ok to brush it if I need to since it's just gonna lay flat on the plug. Surface finish before applying fiberglass layers shouldn't matter much I would think as long as there's a consistent build up that's thick enough. 
Hanaldo
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Depends on if you're using a brush or spray viscosity tooling gelcoat. If you're using Unimould then its brush viscosity and it wont spray through a regular gun with a 2.5mm tip, you'd need a 5 or 6mm tip on a gelcoat cup gun.

But yeh as you said, it doesnt matter. The only benefit to spraying over brushing is application speed, so it's great for big parts that will take a long time to brush up because you can spray it in 5 minutes. It's also slightly easier to get a consistent thickness, but if you've got a brush viscosity gelcoat then that shouldn't be a concern either. In any case, you shouldn't need to spray it for these pieces, it'll take 5 minutes to brush on.
quinn
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Hanaldo - 8/16/2018 1:27:52 PM
Depends on if you're using a brush or spray viscosity tooling gelcoat. If you're using Unimould then its brush viscosity and it wont spray through a regular gun with a 2.5mm tip, you'd need a 5 or 6mm tip on a gelcoat cup gun.

But yeh as you said, it doesnt matter. The only benefit to spraying over brushing is application speed, so it's great for big parts that will take a long time to brush up because you can spray it in 5 minutes. It's also slightly easier to get a consistent thickness, but if you've got a brush viscosity gelcoat then that shouldn't be a concern either. In any case, you shouldn't need to spray it for these pieces, it'll take 5 minutes to brush on.

The gel coat I got is composite invisions brand orange tooling gel coat and is recommended to be sprayed so I'll give it a try. I'll have brushes ready in case I have trouble. Plug came out awesome, nice and shiny. Molds get layed up tomorrow

Hanaldo
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Ok, if its spray viscosity then it should spray through a 2.5mm. Might be a little slow. You can brush, but it's harder to get a consistent finish, so catalyze it slightly higher and keep an eye out for alligatoring.
quinn
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Hanaldo - 8/17/2018 5:38:13 AM
Ok, if its spray viscosity then it should spray through a 2.5mm. Might be a little slow. You can brush, but it's harder to get a consistent finish, so catalyze it slightly higher and keep an eye out for alligatoring.

Molds came out great. I went with my original plan of using a split plug for laying up each individual half on a sheet of melamine. The method I used ensures a very nice joint between the molds. When milling the plugs I started with reference dowel holes on the back side. During the sanding and polishing of the duratec I had the 2 plug halves assembled together with dowel pins so the edges of the 2 halves meet together perfect for the whole seam. After laying up the molds on each plug half and popping them loose, I reassembled the plug halves back together, then placed the mold halves over the assembled plug and clamped the flanges together while trimming and drilling the mold flanges for locating pins. I did pairs of holes, one for a locating pin and one for a bolt next to it. I'm going to mill some short locating pins that have a flange on one side to make it convenient to pop them in there to reference the halves together.
Probably let the mold cure another day and then lay up the first part 

GO

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