help with polishing ( swirl marks )


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jingato
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Hi. I am working on the final stage of my first carbon fiber skinning project. I used all XRC products and carbon from easy composites and the process went smoothly. I did do some of the early sanding with a random orbital sander at 240 grit. I then wet sanded by hand using circular motions from 400 up to 3000. At that stage, the product looked really good, but had a dull, matte finish. I don't recall having any noticeable swirl marks at that time, but it is possible they just weren't visible.

Anyways, today I did the polishing. I did all polishing using pads that I also bought on easy composite and attached to my random orbital sander. I started with the NW1 super cutting compound ( black ), then used the TopFinish 2 ( black ), and then finished it off with the EasyGloss.

Below is the final result. As you can see, there are a lot of swirl marks. I'm not really sure how to proceed now. Should I just try a second round of polishing? Should I go all the way back to the sanding stage? Should I give it another coat of resin? Or should I spray it with some automotive clear coat? I have the clear coat and wouldn't mind doing that, but would that fill in the swirl marks? I don't want to spray it and then regret it.

What do you guys with experience recommend?

Thanks!


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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Gelcoat isn't for skinning, it is for making parts from a mould. 

The blemishes on that small piece look like areas that still have clear coat. Whether they are two spots where the clear coat hasn't been sanded off yet or they are the only two spots where the clear coat has been sanded through - hard to tell from that photo. But you could try to keep sanding them, and see if they get bigger or smaller. If they get smaller, they are remaining clear. If they get bigger, then you have a lot more sanding to do to completely remove the clear.

There isn't really a short-cut to achieving perfect results, it takes practise as well as using good materials. Spray cans just won't give you a good finish straight from the can, they will be orange peely. The solution is either to practise sanding and polishing and improve the finish that way, or to get proper spray equipment and use a proper 2k coating that will give you a good finish off the gun. Both of those approaches will require good technique, so there just isn't an option that doesn't involve honing your skills.


jingato
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Hanaldo - 10/15/2020 7:14:34 AM
Gelcoat isn't for skinning, it is for making parts from a mould. 

The blemishes on that small piece look like areas that still have clear coat. Whether they are two spots where the clear coat hasn't been sanded off yet or they are the only two spots where the clear coat has been sanded through - hard to tell from that photo. But you could try to keep sanding them, and see if they get bigger or smaller. If they get smaller, they are remaining clear. If they get bigger, then you have a lot more sanding to do to completely remove the clear.

There isn't really a short-cut to achieving perfect results, it takes practise as well as using good materials. Spray cans just won't give you a good finish straight from the can, they will be orange peely. The solution is either to practise sanding and polishing and improve the finish that way, or to get proper spray equipment and use a proper 2k coating that will give you a good finish off the gun. Both of those approaches will require good technique, so there just isn't an option that doesn't involve honing your skills.


ah, ok, thank. Gonna keep experimenting with the smaller piece then. I have some new clear coat that I am going to try too. I think I'l sand this one again, clear it, then sand with 2k and polish and see what I get.

Thanks!

bennyT
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Hanaldo - 10/15/2020 7:14:34 AM
Gelcoat isn't for skinning, it is for making parts from a mould. 

The blemishes on that small piece look like areas that still have clear coat. Whether they are two spots where the clear coat hasn't been sanded off yet or they are the only two spots where the clear coat has been sanded through - hard to tell from that photo. But you could try to keep sanding them, and see if they get bigger or smaller. If they get smaller, they are remaining clear. If they get bigger, then you have a lot more sanding to do to completely remove the clear.

There isn't really a short-cut to achieving perfect results, it takes practise as well as using good materials. Spray cans just won't give you a good finish straight from the can, they will be orange peely. The solution is either to practise sanding and polishing and improve the finish that way, or to get proper spray equipment and use a proper 2k coating that will give you a good finish off the gun. Both of those approaches will require good technique, so there just isn't an option that doesn't involve honing your skills.


Hanaldo, do you use an air fed mask for 2K spraying? I'm led to believe that its dangerous stuff and am currently mulling over whether I will try some 2K spraying myself or just leave it to the professionals.

Ben

Hanaldo
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bennyT - 10/21/2020 10:48:00 AM
Hanaldo - 10/15/2020 7:14:34 AM
Gelcoat isn't for skinning, it is for making parts from a mould. 

The blemishes on that small piece look like areas that still have clear coat. Whether they are two spots where the clear coat hasn't been sanded off yet or they are the only two spots where the clear coat has been sanded through - hard to tell from that photo. But you could try to keep sanding them, and see if they get bigger or smaller. If they get smaller, they are remaining clear. If they get bigger, then you have a lot more sanding to do to completely remove the clear.

There isn't really a short-cut to achieving perfect results, it takes practise as well as using good materials. Spray cans just won't give you a good finish straight from the can, they will be orange peely. The solution is either to practise sanding and polishing and improve the finish that way, or to get proper spray equipment and use a proper 2k coating that will give you a good finish off the gun. Both of those approaches will require good technique, so there just isn't an option that doesn't involve honing your skills.


Hanaldo, do you use an air fed mask for 2K spraying? I'm led to believe that its dangerous stuff and am currently mulling over whether I will try some 2K spraying myself or just leave it to the professionals.

Ben

I do not, I just use a top quality Sundstrom respirator. Mainly because I only have a 2-stage filter on my setup not a 3-stage, so my compressed air isn't breathing quality. That is critical for air-fed masks, you need very good filtration to make the supplied air any safer than the 2k.

2k is definitely nasty stuff, and I wouldn't use it with anything less than a very good quality respirator. But it also depends on your exposure. Air-fed masks are really made as PPE for professional spray painters who spend hours in the booth every day for decades. I do a lot of spray painting, but I probably only average maybe an hour or two a fortnight - though I do have a downdraught spray booth as well, which helps. But for a hobbyist, I feel an air-fed setup will be quite unnecessary. If you have money to burn then go for it, its the best you can get. But if you're looking for something to make it a bit safer to work with every now and then, just get a good quality respirator. Make sure you get something with both A2 organic vapour filters and P2 particulate filters.


Edited 5 Years Ago by Hanaldo
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jingato - 5 Years Ago
beliblisk - 5 Years Ago
jingato - 5 Years Ago
beliblisk - 5 Years Ago
                     That looks really good! I'll try the same :) Thanks again
jingato - 5 Years Ago
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jingato - 5 Years Ago
Warren (Staff) - 5 Years Ago
Hanaldo - 5 Years Ago
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