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KOSTAS
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Group: Forum Members
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I have a really hard time finding a D-Limolene supplier in Europe (D-Limolene is a solvent that dissolves HIPS plastic used as 3D printing material ) so my next best option is ABS . I want to print a mold core and after lamination to dissolve it , if i print in ABS i have to use acetone to dissolve it . I must soak my core in acetone for an hour max , would this be enough to ruin my part ? I dipped a small part i made in acetone for couple of hours and i notice some small softening of the surface part but nothing major ,as far as i can see. Since i want my part to take loads i don't feel really comfortable using acetone . What is your view on this?
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f1rob
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Group: Forum Members
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We never dissolve printed cores
Part is cooked 120/125
De bagged an de moulded
Then given a post cure at 140 or 160
At that temp the cores are like chewing gum
Thick gloves,grab the part straight out of the oven an flick the cores out with a scriber
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KOSTAS
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Group: Forum Members
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+xWe never dissolve printed cores Part is cooked 120/125 De bagged an de moulded Then given a post cure at 140 or 160 At that temp the cores are like chewing gum Thick gloves,grab the part straight out of the oven an flick the cores out with a scriber My epoxy specs sheet says : '' The maximum temperature resistance is at least 90 oC; however, some post curing is required in order to have service temperature of 60 - 70 oC.'' So i thought that the maximum temperature i can expose my part is 90C .Am i wrong on this ? When we say post curing what do we mean ? Is it safe for a cured part to be exposed at 140-160C? Sorry about my inquiries but am totally new to the sport !
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Hanaldo
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Rob is talking high end F1 applications, so using pre-pregs. If your max Tg is 90 then you dont want to take it up to 160.
Acetone is commonly used for this 'lost core' sort of application, however immersing epoxy in acetone isn't really ideal. If it is the only way, then it probably wont suffer TOO much with only an hour, but I would want to make sure the epoxy is thoroughly cured - which realistically means giving it a post-cure up to your max Tg.
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Furrari
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HIPS is one route but you can’t get a solvent, then how about PVA. PVA will dissolve in water.
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KOSTAS
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Group: Forum Members
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+xHIPS is one route but you can’t get a solvent, then how about PVA. PVA will dissolve in water. I have tried PVA : 1) extremely expensive 80euros per kilo 2) its almost flexible so in order to print a rigid enough core that can stand vacuum then you have to print thicker walls with more infill that comes to no1 the only good thing is that dissolves super easy leaving no residue.if money is no object then is a good solution , but for me is no option .thanks anyway!
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KOSTAS
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Group: Forum Members
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+xRob is talking high end F1 applications, so using pre-pregs. If your max Tg is 90 then you dont want to take it up to 160. Acetone is commonly used for this 'lost core' sort of application, however immersing epoxy in acetone isn't really ideal. If it is the only way, then it probably wont suffer TOO much with only an hour, but I would want to make sure the epoxy is thoroughly cured - which realistically means giving it a post-cure up to your max Tg. Thank you so much Hanaldo for your honest view you really want to help someone like me . Acetone is my last resort solution .I am thinking of test print in PLA that has deform temperature of 55C and then purring some hot water through. I f this doesn't work i print in ABS and dissolve with acetone.
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Hanaldo
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If PLA deforms at 55, you might consider a similar approach to what Rob described but at lower temperatures. Most epoxies will take up to 70 without much issue, so if you can get the thing into an oven at 60 or 70 for a few hours then you may have a solution.
I dont think hot water would work, it is too localised. You need to heat through the whole core, otherwise you'll be pulling out tiny pieces and it will take hours.
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f1rob
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My mistake
Too many forums too little time
Remembered your initial post where you had the picture of the part bagged up an thought you were pre preg
Hence my reply
Just seen your wet lay vac
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KOSTAS
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Group: Forum Members
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+xIf PLA deforms at 55, you might consider a similar approach to what Rob described but at lower temperatures. Most epoxies will take up to 70 without much issue, so if you can get the thing into an oven at 60 or 70 for a few hours then you may have a solution. I dont think hot water would work, it is too localised. You need to heat through the whole core, otherwise you'll be pulling out tiny pieces and it will take hours. I think we have a winner here  its PLA plain , easy printed , cost efficient . I have to find a big enough oven since one of my parts doesn't fit my kitchen oven (when my wife is absent of course) . I was thinking about water since the solar heater here in Greece provides big amounts of super hot water around 75C.
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