Improving Water tightness of my RC Boat Hull.


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Miroslav
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posted 7 Years Ago Split HOT
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I have a big problem with the water-tightness of my boat shell. It shell MUST be very thin like no more then 0.40 mm after laminating, I made the first layer of spayed gelcoat GC50, then one layer of matt 30gr,  one fiber plane cloth 50gr, aramide 100gr and last fiber cloth 50gr. Then I put peelply, perforated sheet and absorber cloth. Next was to apply the vacuum for several hours until the epoxy resins cures. After de-moulding and pulling off the peelply I could achieved the required shell thickness. When I did the water-tight test the shell has had so many micro pores and leak badly. The next time I did the same with exception of peelply layer because it looked to me that pull off this layer opened the micro pores. In that manner I increased the shall thickness for more then 50% !!!! Water-tightness is OK but the boat shell is to thick and to heavy and it is not competitive. 
Please HELP me with suggestions how to make water-tight shell at minimum thickness !!! What lamination layers and fibre you can suggest?
Thank you in advance and best regards,
Miroslav
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oekmont
oekmont
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If you used vacuum compression, you seem to have a vacuum pump. If it is an oiled rotary vane pump, it should be able to achieve enough vacuum for resin infusion.
Such a thin shell could get tiny holes, when using hand laminating techniques. Basically any small air bubbles could have an opening to the inside, after the peel ply is removed.
By using resin infusion, you should get away without trapped air bubbles, and therefore you should get a  leak free hull.
I wonder about your layup. With only 0,5 mm, any contact with rock's will get though your hull, with or without aramid. The aramid might stop tge damage growth, but the boat will sink anyway. You should get away much cheaper and faster, by using only 2x200g carbon.

GO

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