Newbie Needs Help With a Mould


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robenergy
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Hanaldo - 1/9/2018 10:13:11 AM
The Scott Bader stuff works fine for brushing, there's no dramas there. It needs to be thinned with MEK for spraying, so straight out of the tin it's a tad on the thin side but still ok for brushing.


Hey Hanaldo,

I'm in need of some help if you've got a minute. I've used the Scott Bader Primecoat (nice one for the heads up!!) and used a brush to put 2 coats of the Scott Bader Glosscoat on.. Now I'm left with brush marks that go quite deep and in areas I've managed to sand through to the Primecoat in a couple of small patches... Question is,, can I spot fill the Glosscoat and sand it down/blend it in? Or is it the same as sanding through on the Primecoat, I've got to put a complete fresh coat on??

Thanks in advance for any help

Rob

Hanaldo
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The Scott Bader stuff works fine for brushing, there's no dramas there. It needs to be thinned with MEK for spraying, so straight out of the tin it's a tad on the thin side but still ok for brushing.
robenergy
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Hanaldo - 1/9/2018 1:30:56 AM
If you're in Australia, get in touch with CG Composites and order Scott Bader Primecoat and Glosscoat. Very similar product to what Easy Composites sell.

You really don't want anything that is hard to sand. The more effort you have to put into sanding, the more likely you are digging a hole and won't achieve a flat surface. 

It is generally much harder to spot fill than it is to fill a larger area, because by the time you have got the filled area flat you have dug a low spot around the outside of it. I do a lot of body repair work, and it took me awhile to learn that it is actually much quicker to cover the whole thing and sand it down than it is to try to do small areas because you tend to chase yourself in circles when you do patches.

You are likely going to need to do more than the next coat though, so what you might do is spot fill the low areas, and flat it down with 80 grit (on a block!). Then do another full coat over the entire thing, and with any luck you will get it flat with just that application. If you start to go through again, stop sanding and apply another coat. 

I completely get what you're saying about patch filling and creating more work for myself in the long run. The end result is what counts and you gotta put the effort in with the mould!
 
Shame I didn't find CG Composites when I was looking for suppliers! Cheers for the heads up..

I've not spoken to anybody at CG Composites but on the website it says their Bader Primecoat is made for spray guns, where as easy composites is able to be brushed on which suits me just fine at the minute. But I'll ring up first and make sure.

Thanks for the pointers  Hanaldo, muchly appreciated.

PS, one other thing, how finer grit would I have to go down to before I can put my gelcoat on??

Hanaldo
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If you're in Australia, get in touch with CG Composites and order Scott Bader Primecoat and Glosscoat. Very similar product to what Easy Composites sell.

You really don't want anything that is hard to sand. The more effort you have to put into sanding, the more likely you are digging a hole and won't achieve a flat surface. 

It is generally much harder to spot fill than it is to fill a larger area, because by the time you have got the filled area flat you have dug a low spot around the outside of it. I do a lot of body repair work, and it took me awhile to learn that it is actually much quicker to cover the whole thing and sand it down than it is to try to do small areas because you tend to chase yourself in circles when you do patches.

You are likely going to need to do more than the next coat though, so what you might do is spot fill the low areas, and flat it down with 80 grit (on a block!). Then do another full coat over the entire thing, and with any luck you will get it flat with just that application. If you start to go through again, stop sanding and apply another coat. 
robenergy
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Warren (Staff) - 1/8/2018 11:49:36 AM
You need to choose a pigment suitable for your resin system.  The pigment you linked to is a silicone pigment.

You can fill in the low areas, but if it is easy to sand, then coat the whole part as you don't know how low some of the areas are.


The Reface I used is a polyester based filler.

This particular filler is quite hardwork to sand down. I do feel reasonably happy about just patch filling the bear areas and then blending it all together. But, obviously I want a really good finish, so how bigger corner am I cutting by only spot filling and blending in.. would it still give me acceptable results??

robenergy
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Hanaldo - 1/8/2018 12:02:35 PM
I think you are much better off using something like Easy Composites Pattern Coat Primer. High build but easy to sand, which is important or you will never get a flat surface.


Hi Hanaldo,

Thanks for the reply.

It was actually Easy Composites tutorial videos that got me into the whole carbon fiber making funkiness in the first place and their website is great! The only thing that stopped me ordering from them is the fact I'm in Australia!

Okay, the Easy Composite Pattern Coat Primer and Pattern Coat Hi Gloss systems make the most sense if I have to coat the whole mould again. How many coats of the primer and hi gloss would I need and can I apply it using a paint roller? Also, am I right in thinking I won't need to use any pigment if I use the above mentioned primer/gloss?

Thx, Rob

Edited 6 Years Ago by robenergy
Hanaldo
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I think you are much better off using something like Easy Composites Pattern Coat Primer. High build but easy to sand, which is important or you will never get a flat surface.

Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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You need to choose a pigment suitable for your resin system.  The pigment you linked to is a silicone pigment.

You can fill in the low areas, but if it is easy to sand, then coat the whole part as you don't know how low some of the areas are.


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
robenergy
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Warren (Staff) - 1/8/2018 9:34:03 AM
If you have gone down to the wood, you need another layer really to ensure you get a good finish.  What you can do is pigment the new layer a slightly different colour to the layer underneath.  That way as you sand, you can see how deep you are cutting.


Hi Warren, thanks for the reply.

So what you think, I need to apply a coat of  reface to the whole mould or just the bear patches and blend it all together?

Nice idea about the pigment,, would something like this be good to use?- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Latex-Colourant-RED-2oz/322336081407?hash=item4b0cba45ff:g:ywcAAOSw3utY4Wqh

Edited 6 Years Ago by robenergy
Warren (Staff)
Warren (Staff)
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If you have gone down to the wood, you need another layer really to ensure you get a good finish.  What you can do is pigment the new layer a slightly different colour to the layer underneath.  That way as you sand, you can see how deep you are cutting.


Warren Penalver
Easy Composites / Carbon Mods - Technical Support Assistant
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