Composite Surf Kayak Build


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Junior
Junior
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Hi all!


I’ve recently discovered the world of composites and have been fascinated with the whole subject and intrigued with what can be produced.


I am a very keen kayaker and have a burning desire to build a composite version of my current plastic surf boat, a Fluid Element which weighs around 15kgs and measures 202cm x 64cm (widest part).



I have tried paddling some other boats which are produced in carbon/kevlar, but due to their design I just haven’t got on with them aswell as my current boat. 

My boat was produced in carbon/kevlar in a limited amount (around 30), but these are very rare to come by and as you can imagine, fetch a large amount of money as they retailed at £1395 new. I am therefore planning a long-term project to build myself a composite version but have come across the usual problems that most people encounter such as which combination of materials to use.


I will be on a tight budget with not much room for error, so I need to keep costs down by using cheaper materials/resins if possible. I plan to take a mould of my current boat in either two or three parts, then create the boat using wet-lay and vacuum bagging.


My initial thoughts are one of the following four lay-ups with Polyester/Vinylester resin with a target weight under 9kgs:


(From Outside the boat to Inside the boat)


Outer layer of 300g Black Diolen 2/2 twill

1x 300g plain Diolen 2/2 twill

3mm foam core

1x 300g plain Diolen 2/2 twill

1x 300g Black Diolen 2/2 twill


or (if the Diolen only lay-up is not stiff enough)…


Outer layer of 300g Black Diolen 2/2 twill

1x 300g S-Glass 2/2 twill

3mm foam core

1x 300g S-Glass 2/2 twill

1x 300g Black Diolen 2/2 twill


or (if the lay-up needs to be stronger still)…


Outer layer of 300g Kevlar 2/2 twill

1x 300g Carbon 2/2 Twill

3mm foam core

1x 300g Carbon 2/2 twill


Or (if my budget will stretch to it)…


2 x 228g Carbon/Kevlar Aramid

3mm Foam Core

2x 228g Carbon/Kevlar Aramid


My question is, firstly will the lay-ups be strong enough for white water use in the sea (waves) with the odd scrape and knock from pebbly beaches? It will no doubt take more of a beating than a longer sea kayak as it’s more of a play boat style kayak. And secondly, which lay-up will be stronger? I could possible use a mixture of the lay-ups with a stronger/more expensive one making up the base of the kayak, and a cheaper one making up the top half of the kayak?


I have chosen to put either the Diolen or Kevlar on the outside layer to give better abrasion resistance and to protect the Carbon/S-Glass, however I have found some conflicting information online that suggests the Kevlar/Diolen should be on the inner layer?? Being that Kevlar/Diolen can take more damage before splitting, I would have thought if it were on the inner layer, the carbon would crack on the outside before the Kevlar/Diolen, whereas on the outside it would keep the cracked carbon beneath the layer of Kevlar/Diolen protecting the boat from splitting?


Pages where I have gathered inspiration has come from:


Kevlar Playboat:

http://shanesliquidlogic.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/composite-playboat-prototype-1.html


Carbon Zet Playboat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IA9vkauvxGY


Carbon Vadja Playboat:

http://vajdafreestyle.com/en/Kayaks/Beast/Beast-series/


Lots more questions to follow no doubt, but any help/suggestions would be fantastic!


Cheers,

Junior.


RedLegsGear
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I am also planning on building a kayak. Though 16ft fishing kayak.
 I am planning on putting Kevlar under the carbon for the sinless reason that Kevlar will be harder to clean up and repair after a few years of use. I'm thinking the Kevlar will still do its job and prevent what major damage it can, and the outer carbon will be easier to repair minor nicks and dings.
 Good luck on your build bro!
Aloha
Junior
Junior
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What lay-up are you going for?

Won't carbon on the outside damage easier?
Junior
Junior
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A few more questions in addition to my first ones!

1. When using a foam core (e.g. in a kayak hull), should the foam run right to the edge of the laminate? And if it should, how do you seal the ends?

2. Thinking about the design, I would like to have either an orange or white gelcoat for the top half, but have transparent decals (such as writing) so it shows
the Carbon underneath. How would I go about achieving this?

3. After watching this video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0N-LiWRA7RQ
I have also been intrigued by Innegra and wonder whether this could be used within the layup to achieve a better result? Could someone explain what effect it
would have pairing it with Carbon, Carbon/Kevlar, S-Glass & Diolen in terms of kayak strength and durability? Would it work either side of foam core with one of the other
composites on the outside?
RedLegsGear
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Yes the carbon will damage more easily. But also easier to repair. 
 I've not decided completely yet but am thinking something along the lines of
 2x2 twill, Kevlar, Kevlar, biaxle, UD, biaxle
FLD
FLD
FLD
posted 8 Years Ago HOT
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Nice toys there!  I keep thinking about building one but with dodgy shoulders there doesn't seem much point.  Looking at your layups they are on the fragile side.  I used to paddle a bit of slalom and my K1 was a hull of 660g-foam-2x200g.  It was fairly robust but I wouldn't want to have been scraping any rocks with it through fear of 'zippers'.  I had a squirt that was a 200g followed by 6 (yes count them, a whopping 6) layers of 450gsm CSM.  Whilst CSM is the probably the weakest fibre choice it's also cheap.  If I were to do a kayak I'd do one in CSM first to give it a try.

WRT foaming up to the edges of the moulding my previous boats were done like this.  The seam tape seals the edges so there shouldn't be a problem.  6 layers on the outer seams and 4 on the inner.  I use 1" tape to start then go to two.

Have a look for some alufibre I think a boat looks nice in this.
Junior
Junior
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So how many layers would you recommend with something like Carbon/Kevlar?
FLD
FLD
FLD
posted 8 Years Ago HOT
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For something with a vague resistance to knocks against the bank or rocks I'd be looking at 2 layers of 660g outer-foam-1 layer of 660g.  I'd also recommend sticking an extra layer on the inner and outer at the ends for around 6-8 in.  For the deck you could use 1 layer of 660-foam-1 layer of 660.  You should be using epoxy resin for this.  For the short, bouncy, boats aimed at air loops etc this should give a nice rigid boat that isn't too heavy.  It will resist knocks to some extent but it'll be no placcy boat.  For the seams I'd say 4 layers on the inside and 6 on the outside.  Again for the short boats you'll be fine to get right round without need for an end pour.  For anything 'slicey' you'll need to do an end pour of resin with chopped ends.

You could lessen the thickness if you need to go lighter but it's something to paddle where there's no rocks.
Junior
Junior
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So thicker layers would be stronger than multiple layers of a similar weight?

By my calculations, if I were to use a total of 5 layers of 650g (2 on top and 3 on the bottom) it would weigh around 8.3kg.
Edited 8 Years Ago by Junior
Junior
Junior
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Can any of the EasyComposite staff lend some advice?

I've read some threads from other forums about Kiteboarders using 2x 200g CF either side of a foam core.
GO

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