Epoxy/Polyester Table Top with Wood


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Matt
Matt
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I have a project I would like to attempt but not 100% on how to achieve it, any input would be appreciated.

I am looking to use a white epoxy or polyester to encapsulate some wooden branches to create an indoor table top. I will cut a flat surface onto the branches before laying them into an open mould. The branches will be visible on the table top but as the epoxy/polyester will be pigmented white you won't see any branches that aren't on the top surface. I hope that makes sense.

The upper surface needs to be durable, i.e. not easily scratched and fairly resistant to heat. It also has to be UV resistant - no discolouration.

Initially I was thinking of using Waterclear Polyester Casting Resin with a white pigment and treating the wood with Polyester Infusion Resin before pouring to reduce are bubbles.

My concern with this approach is the durability of the Waterclear Polyester as a table top.

Would it be possible to pour a very thin (1-2mm) layer of epoxy (with white pigment) in order to get the durable surface then make the bulk of the'body' in polyester (up to 50mm thick).

Is this possible?

Would the epoxy yellow over time?

Is there anyway I can use filler in the polyester pour to reduce costs?

Is there anything else I should consider?

TIA

Matt
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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Polyester casting resin is different to polyester laminating resin, you can do thicker pours. In fact I believe polyester casting resin has less exotherm than most epoxy casting resins, it's quite a low exotherm resin. 

Regarding pouring polyester onto epoxy, what would likely happen is that it would appear to work initially. Unless you need to do some cutting or sanding or any finishing work that would stress the bond at all, then it would probably only be after weeks/months that problems start to present themselves, which is obviously a problem if you're trying to test things. If you do go with that approach, I would suggest keying the surface of the epoxy VERY well before pouring the polyester. Completely keyed with 60 grit sandpaper, and probably even score it well with a knife as well, and clean with acetone. You will want a very good mechanical bond to give it a chance, because it won't bond chemically at all. 
GO

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