My second Unimould -- Asymmetric BMW windscreen ..


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Dravis
Dravis
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Hi All!


Currently I'm working on a project of "customizing" an 1980-something BMW K75 "flying Brick" into something a bit more "interesting"

This among a lot of other things means removing most of the extremely heavy plastics on the "donor" and skinning a lot of the plastic that goes back on--

(XCR Coating Resin makes this almost a pleasure, even though I'm not very fond of skinning Cool)

The headlight of the old "Rubber Cow" / "GummiKuh" is replaced by a new item from a GS650 .. an assymetric design with a big dipped beam light and a smaller high beam.

To match this I made a plug for a new short / stubby windscreen (usual methods: High Density foam, Pattern fill etc .. ) shaped by hand ..

From this I made my second Unimould- mould ..  Which went very well...

http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/DKDravis/9DDB85F4-BB88-4C0D-9A5E-5AFFC1418EC5_zpsolnz4xz4.jpg

Infusion ..

http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/DKDravis/C08FCCC6-25D0-4785-B31A-7ECA584F7A66_zpsdfa5ndg5.jpg

First part out of the Mould .. Stripes slipped .. bummer ..Crazy  "Orange" kevlar becomes much darker in colour when in resin ...

http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u449/DKDravis/Mobile%20Uploads/A372F86C-D4D6-4FFE-AE21-7030EB78DB7C_zpsqfmopgjd.jpg

As can be seen -- print through from the 3D core .. and some pinholing at the edge of the core .. and the blasted tow stripe moved ...

Next one will be without 3D core (not at all needed, just in there to give it a try .. )

Stack is 200 gsm pw ... 2x325 gsm Satin weave .. crossed .. 3D core between the 325 Satin weaves .. Stripes are EC "orange Kevlar mix" and flat tow ..
Notice that the Orange Kevlar is not at 45 Degrees .. ??? ...

"Sapere Aude"... Dare to KNOW!

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Hanaldo
Hanaldo
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Pity about the stripe slipping, looks good otherwise! 

With regards to the 3D core, I've recently discovered that they actually have a 'cosmetic side'. So if you look at it closely, there is a smooth side and a rough side. The smooth side should be placed towards the tool surface, and this reduces print-through. It still prints somewhat, but much better than when you place the rough side towards the mould surface! 

Also with the pinholes at the edges of the core, you can reduce this by butting up layers of fabric tape or strips of fabric to the edge of the core. The closer you build up the edges to the thickness of the core, the less bridging you will get and hence a better surface finish. 

I know the core isn't necessary on this piece, but just some tips in case you've got something you want to use it on later!
GO

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