Which resin to use for desk


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dmgeurts
dmgeurts
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Having done some research I see that not all resins are good to use for table/bar/desk use due to the possibility of scratching the surface. Before people suggest normal paint, I've had plenty of bad experiences with this and rubber feet of equipment stood on painted surfaces for prolonged periods of time. Additionally I'd like to have more 'depth' in the colour/design of the desk. That said I'm not planning to embed coins or other objects in the resin.

My thoughts currently:

Base coat: EC "High Qual​ity GP Poly​ester Lami​natin​g Resi​n" with pigment added over degreased MDF.
Mid coat: same as above but with metallic flakes added.
One or two top coat: EC "Patte​rn Coat Hi-G​loss - Toug​h, High Glos​s Fini​sh for Comp​osite (Fib​regla​ss) Patt​erns".

I'd like to get a matt finish and am hoping to obtain this through not completely buffing up the top coat after sanding. Will have to wait and see which looks best. Optionally I could apply an automotive 2 part coat but due to the size of the desk it has to be made in situ so if I can do without it would mean I don't have to invest in spray painting equipment.

My concerns are with the heat resistance of the resin (think of hot mugs and solder dropping where it shouldn't). My understanding is that the Polyester resin should be hard enough to prevent easy scratching. A heat resistant hard resin seems hard to find.

I noticed that some model plane builders mix acetone into the resin to thin it. My thinking is that this would help in levelling the applied resin which would reduce the need for excessive sanding.
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Dravis
Dravis
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You state at the end of your post that you would like to do this work "in situ"

Using Polyester based resins WILL give you severe smell problems from the evaporating styrene -- it will be there for a long time!!!

Even though it is expensive, I would use Epoxy based resins..

The perfect one in my opinion is Wessex Resins "PermaCoat"  it is almost water clear, and very tough...  It can be used for all the layers, and can be tinted/filled to your liking.. Not cheap however ..

I have a washbasin setup and an outdoor kitchen tabletop that is done with this, and while solder-drops probably will mar the surface (No resin/paint known to me will resist the heat from solder drops, apart form the specialist "heat resistant paints" which are "high solid content, non transparent") my two very different "tabletops" are still very nice and shiny after more than a year (one of them outside constantly, but not in direct sunlight.
The "PermaCoat" shows no sign of discolouring or marking form hot tea-mugs or even cooking pots ..  But in my opinion this also often is a result of the base material being sensitive to heat. 

The EC Coating resin is almost the same, but cures harder and less flexible than the "PermaCoat"  I my opinion the slight flexibility of the PermaCoat is one reason for it being very scratch-resistant ..

Regarding post-cure to elevate the Tg of a large flat surface, I have done it with a glass plate (EeasyLease coated :-) ) and a heat blanket for motorcycle tyres -- :-)

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Edited 10 Years Ago by Dravis
dmgeurts
dmgeurts
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Thank you. Good to get a better idea how to interpret the tech sheets of these materials. Any idea where to buy PermaKote? I don't see prices listed, do Wessex Resins sell directly?
GO

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